This interactive NC Cosmetology Ebook contains 8 hours of continuing education. To complete click the Complete Your CE button at the top right of the screen.
NORTH CAROLINA Cosmetology Continuing Education
Elite Learning
COMPLETE YOUR CE BY THE OCTOBER 1 DEADLINE
Introducing the Design-Your-Own CE Package! (see inside cover) The courses in this book meet your CE requirements for NC license renewal.
8-Hour Continuing Education Package $19.99 ELITELEARNING.COM/BOOK Complete this book online with book code: CNC0826
WHAT’S INSIDE
Chapter 1: Color Correction: From the Basics to Advanced Techniques
1
[1 CE hour] Color correction is one of the most rewarding services a stylist can offer. This comprehensive course teaches students how to analyze a client’s hair, skin tone, and color history to correct common and advanced mistakes—whether their own or from another salon. From green blondes to faded fantasy shades, deep reds to botched highlights, students will learn how to diagnose, formulate, and execute corrective procedures using safe, effective methods. The course covers everything from gentle toners to advanced color removal techniques, providing quick reference and solutions. Chapter 2: Communication Skills for Salon Professionals 9 [2 CE hours] This course begins with communications. It is often said that good communication is the key to doing well in life and business. Several factors affect both direct and indirect communication. In this basic-level course, stylists will learn tips and tricks to help them improve and maintain their communication skills with clients, coworkers, and management. Chapter 3: Establishing Gender Inclusivity in Hair Salons: Shaping the Future of the Beauty Industry 23 [1 CE hour] Suppose your salon is searching for ways to become more welcoming to people of diverse beliefs, backgrounds, and identities. In that case, this class can increase your appearance in today’s society. This course explores gender inclusivity in hair salons, examining its meaning, its importance, and how it may be incorporated into the hairstyling businesses. When taking this course, cosmetologists and barber stylists take giant steps toward symbolizing equal rights and creating spaces where clients may feel respected, included, and safe. Chapter 4: Eyelash Enhancements: From Prep to Post-Care 29 [1 CE hour] In this comprehensive course, you will learn how to safely and confidently apply eyelash enhancements while understanding the history and its evolution in modern beauty. Cosmetologists will gain vital knowledge of the essential equipment, supplies, and materials, along with proper preparation, cleansing, and sanitation techniques. By the end of the course, you’ll be able to perform professional eyelash applications, educate clients on home care, and ensure long-lasting, satisfying results. Chapter 5: Fundamentals of Laser Hair Removal 34 [1 CE hour] This course is intended for estheticians and those seeking careers as a laser hair removal technician. It offers an in-depth exploration of laser hair removal, a non-invasive cosmetic procedure that uses concentrated light to target and destroy hair follicles, resulting in long-term hair reduction. We will cover modern laser systems, their suitability for various skin tones and hair types, and the continuous improvements that have enhanced treatment safety and efficacy. Chapter 6: Hair Extensions and Enhancements 40 [1 CE hour] This course teaches cosmetologists what they need to know about hair extensions, including popular types (clip-ins, tape- ins, sew-ins, fusion, micro-links, and halo), their applications, and how to match extensions to clients’ hair types. Learn proper installation techniques, maintenance, and aftercare, as well as the training and certifications needed. You will also gain skills in consultation, pricing, and hair health, allowing you to offer customized, high-quality services. Chapter 7: The Art of Microblading for Beginners 46 [1 CE hour] Discover the art of microblading in this comprehensive course. Delve into its history and evolution and master every step from consultation to execution. Learn the importance of aftercare for optimal results and explore training options to become a certified microblading artist. Uncover the benefits of providing microblading services to clients who want to enhance their looks to those seeking enhancement due to suffering from health challenges. Final Examination Answer Sheet 52
©2026: All Rights Reserved. Materials may not be reproduced without the expressed written permission or consent of Colibri Healthcare, LLC. The materials presented in this course are meant to provide the consumer with general information on the topics covered. The information provided was prepared by professionals with practical knowledge in the areas covered. It is not meant to provide medical, legal or professional services advice. Colibri Healthcare, LLC recommends that you consult a medical, legal or professional services expert licensed in your state. Colibri Healthcare, LLC has made all reasonable efforts to ensure that all content provided in this course is accurate and up to date at the time of printing, but does not represent or warrant that it will apply to your situation or circumstances and assumes no liability from reliance on these materials. i COSMETOLOGY CONTINUING EDUCATION Book Code: CNC0826
What are the requirements for license renewal? Licenses Expire Frequently Asked Questions
CE Hours Required
Mandatory Subjects
24 Must complete 8 hours of CE per year during the 3-year licensing period (All hours are allowed through home study)
Before October 1, every 3 years
None
How much will it cost? If you are only completing individual courses in this book, enter the code that corresponds to the course below online.
COURSE TITLE
HOURS
PRICE COURSE CODE
1 2
$7.00
CNC01CB CNC02CS
Chapter 1: Color Correction: From the Basics to Advanced Techniques
$10.00
Chapter 2: Communication Skills for Salon Professionals
Establishing Gender Inclusivity in Hair Salons: Shaping the Future of the Beauty Industry
1
$7.00
CNC01EG
Chapter 3:
1 1 1 1
$7.00 $7.00 $7.00 $7.00
CNC01EE CNC01LH CNC01HE CNC01AM CNC0826
Chapter 4: Eyelash Enhancements: From Prep to Post-Care
Chapter 5: Fundamentals of Laser Hair Removal
Chapter 6: Hair Extensions and Enhancements
Chapter 7: The Art of Microblading for Beginners
Best Value - Save $32.01 - All 8 Hours
8
$19.99
How do I complete this course and receive my certificate of completion? See the following page for step-by-step instructions on how to complete and receive your certificate. Are you a North Carolina board-approved provider? Colibri Healthcare, LLC’s courses meet the standards for cosmetology continuing education activities in North Carolina. Are my hours reported to the North Carolina board? No. The board performs random audits at which time proof of continuing education must be provided. What information do I need to provide for course completion and certificate issuance? Please provide your license number on the test sheet to receive course credit. Your state may require additional information such as date of birth and/or last 4 of Social Security number; please provide these, if applicable. Is my information secure? Yes! We use SSL encryption, and we never share your information with third-parties. We are also rated A+ by the National Better Business Bureau. No problem, we have several options for you to choose from! Online at EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology you will see our robust FAQ section that answers many of your questions. Simply click FAQs at the top of the page, email us at office@elitelearning.com , or call us toll-free at 1-866-344-0970 , Monday - Friday 9:00 am - 6:00 pm and Saturday 10:00 am - 4:00 pm EST. What if I still have questions? What are your business hours?
Important information for licensees Always check your state’s board website to determine the number of hours required for renewal, mandatory topics (as these are subject to change), and the amount that may be completed through home study. Also, make sure that you notify the board of any changes of address. It is important that your most current address is on file. Disclosures Resolution of conflict of interest Colibri Healthcare, LLC implemented mechanisms prior to the planning and implementation of the continuing education activity, to identify and resolve conflicts of interest for all individuals in a position to control content of the course activity. Sponsorship/commercial support and non-endorsement It is the policy of Colibri Healthcare, LLC not to accept commercial support. Furthermore, commercial interests are prohibited from distributing or providing access to this activity to learners. Licensing board contact information: North Carolina Board of Cosmetic Art Examiners 121 Edinburgh South Drive, Suite 209 Cary, North Carolina 27511 Phone: (919) 736-6123 Fax: (919) 678-3012 Website: https://www.nccosmeticarts.com/
ii
Book Code: CNC0826
COSMETOLOGY CONTINUING EDUCATION
How To Complete This Book For Credit
Please read these instructions before proceeding.
• Go to EliteLearning.com/Book and enter code CNC0826 in the book code box, then click GO . • Proceed to your exam. If you already have an account, sign in with your username and password. If you do not have an account, you’ll be able to create one now. • Follow the online instructions to complete your exam and finalize your purchase. Upon completion, you’ll receive access to your completion certificate. ONLINE FASTEST AND EASIEST!
Enter book code
CNC0826
GO
Complete your CE
IF YOU’RE ONLY COMPLETING CERTAIN COURSES IN THIS BOOK : • Go to EliteLearning.com/Book and enter the code that corresponds to the course below, then click GO . Each course will need to be completed individually, and the individual course price will apply.
CODE TO ENTER
COURSE TITLE
HOURS PRICE
ALL HOURS IN THIS CORRESPONDENCE BOOK $19.99 CNC0826 If you are only completing individual courses in this book, enter the code that corresponds to the course below online. Color Correction: From the Basics to Advanced Techniques 1 $7.00 CNC01CB Communication Skills for Salon Professionals 2 $10.00 CNC02CS Establishing Gender Inclusivity in Hair Salons: Shaping the Future of the Beauty Industry 1 $7.00 CNC01EG Eyelash Enhancements: From Prep to Post-Care 1 $7.00 CNC01EE Fundamentals of Laser Hair Removal 1 $7.00 CNC01LH Hair Extensions and Enhancements 1 $7.00 CNC01HE The Art of Microblading for Beginners 1 $7.00 CNC01AM 8
Complete the answer sheet and evaluation found in the back of this book. Include your payment information and email address. Mail to: Elite Learning, PO Box 997432, Sacramento, CA 95899
BY MAIL
Mailed completions will be processed within 2 business days of receipt, and certificates emailed to the address provided. Submissions without a valid email address will be mailed to the postal address provided.
iii
COSMETOLOGY CONTINUING EDUCATION
Book Code: CNC0826
Chapter 1: Color Correction: From the Basics to Advanced Techniques 1 CE Hour Course overview
Color correction is one of the most rewarding services a stylist can offer. This comprehensive course teaches students how to analyze a client’s hair, skin tone, and color history to correct common and advanced mistakes—whether their own or from another salon. From green blondes to faded fantasy Learning objectives After completing this course, the learner will be able to: Learn how to use the color wheel and understand how underlying pigments affect final results. Distinguish the differences between basic and advanced color corrections. Assess hair condition, porosity, and history to create a safe and effective correction plan. Corrective hair color services are designed to fix unwanted or undesirable results, such as brassiness, uneven tones, or shades that are too dark or too light. These corrections involve a range of techniques, including color removal, lightening, toning, and reapplication of color to achieve the client’s desired result. Corrective procedures can range from basic treatments for minor mishaps to major transformations requiring advanced professional skills. Clients’ DIY fixes can often make the issue worse, especially if they use the wrong products or methods (Amato, n.d.) Therefore, the best outcome lies in the hands of a trained professional who can assess the damage and choose the safest, most effective corrective approach. Ideally, professional corrective services are performed within one to six weeks of the original color service. While clients
shades, deep reds to botched highlights, students will learn how to diagnose, formulate, and execute corrective procedures using safe, effective methods. The course covers everything from gentle toners to advanced color removal techniques, providing quick reference and solutions.
Learn how to manage client expectations through consultations.
Identify common corrections like brassy blondes, hot roots, banding, or color build-up, and how to fix them. Explain techniques like root smudging, lowlighting, and multi-step formulations for accurate corrections. CHAPTER 1: UNDERSTANDING THE CORRECTIVE HAIR COLOR PROCESS
may not want to wait that long, waiting too long can allow the unwanted color to settle deeper into the hair shaft, making it more difficult to remove. In many cases, action must be taken within a day or two of the initial coloring mishap. In extreme cases, color correction may need to be performed in stages across multiple appointments. The color removal process itself is highly complex, with many variables: the type and strength of developer, lightener formulation, and the technique used all play a role. Choosing the right corrective method requires a deep understanding of hair chemistry and condition. Only trained professionals can properly assess hair health and determine the safest route to correct color while preserving the integrity of the hair.
CHAPTER 2: BASIC VERSUS ADVANCED COLOR CORRECTION
The difference between basic and advanced color correction lies in the complexity of the problem, the techniques Basic color correction Basic color correction involves straightforward fixes that don’t typically require major chemical changes or multiple steps. These are common problems that happen during everyday coloring and often can be corrected in a single session (Cohen, 2024). Examples of basic correction include the following: ● Neutralizing brassy or yellow tones with toner. ● Correcting slight root-to-end mismatch. ● Refreshing faded color with a gloss or glaze. Advanced color correction Advanced color correction deals with more complex, layered issues that almost always require several appointments, multiple steps, a deep understanding of hair chemistry, and advanced skills to fix. Examples of advanced correction include the following: ● Removing black box dye. ● Taking dark hair to platinum blonde. ● Fixing banding from multiple overlapping colors. ● Repairing chemical damage during correction. ● Removing vibrant fantasy shades (e.g., red, blue, green). ● Transitioning from colored hair to natural gray.
required, and the level of expertise needed to fix the issue. Here’s a breakdown of each.
● Adjusting a color that’s slightly too dark or light. ● Fixing uneven tone caused by porosity or application error. Skills/tools required are as follows: ● Toners and glazes ● Clarifying shampoos ● Root smudging ● Basic understanding of the color wheel Skills/tools required include the following: ● Color removers, bleach, and fillers. ● Strand testing and porosity analysis. ● Multiple formulation adjustments. ● Knowledge of hair structure and condition. ● Layered correction plans over several sessions. No matter at which level you are correcting color, having the knowledge needed to figure out which techniques and products are needed is critical.
Page 1
Book Code: CNC0826
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
CHAPTER 3: HOW HAIR COLOR WORKS
● Cortex : The thickest part of the hair, where melanin resides and color changes occur ● Medulla : The innermost layer, influencing hair thickness Understanding how each type of color interacts with the hair is essential for effective application, correction, and maintenance—especially when working with previously colored or chemically treated hair. Let’s review different types of color.
Depending on the type of hair color you're working with, its chemical makeup and how deeply it penetrates the hair shaft determines how long the color lasts, how it fades, and how it is corrected or removed. Hair structure plays a critical role in how color behaves. Each strand of hair is made up of three layers: ● Cuticle : The outermost, translucent layer composed of overlapping scales Temporary and semi-permanent color Temporary and semi-permanent colors coat the cuticle with small color molecules and usually wash out after 6–12 Demi-permanent color Demis contain small amounts of peroxide, allowing some penetration into the cuticle. The color molecules are small enough to wash out over 18–24 shampoos. Permanent color These use higher levels of peroxide and other chemicals to open the cuticle and penetrate the cortex. Natural pigment
shampoos. They don’t affect the inner cortex or natural pigment.
is lifted and replaced with long-chain color molecules that can’t be washed out, although they may fade over time.
CHAPTER 4: TYPES OF COLOR REMOVERS
● Toners/toning shampoos : Least damaging; ideal first option ● Color reducers : Break down color molecules with minimal damage ● Color strippers : Stronger, harsher—like bleach, but targets color ● Bleach : Most aggressive and damaging; use a last resort because it removes natural hair pigment and artificial color (Freeman, 2023a). Color removers don’t restore natural pigment and won’t work on henna or semi-permanent colors. Always follow with a new color application.
Color removers work in various ways depending on the kind of color used and the condition of the hair. Some are formulated to gently shrink and dissolve artificial color molecules, while others aggressively strip pigment from the hair shaft. Color reducers are less damaging and ideal for mild or basic corrections. Strippers are stronger and better suited for stubborn, long-lasting colors. They pose a greater risk to hair health and should be only by professionals with advanced training. Understanding the differences between removers, reducers, and bleach-based products is essential for safely and effectively correcting unwanted color.
CHAPTER 5: CONSULTATIONS–ASKING ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS
● What type of color was used (semi, demi, permanent, henna)? ● How damaged is the hair? ● What other chemical processes have you applied? ● How much color needs removing? ● Is the client taking medication? ● Does the client smoke? Clients rely on your professional eye and knowledge—make sure your consultation sets the tone for success. ● Wavy hair (Type 2) : Balanced, but resistant to color; prone to frizz ● Straight hair (Type 1) : Varies in porosity and density; must be evaluated ● Virgin hair : Strong but resistant; needs longer processing time ● Damaged/porous hair : Prone to “grabbing” color; requires preconditioning and careful processing
The consultation is where client expectations are managed. Ask targeted questions—up front—to understand the client’s goal, disappointment with their current color, and openness to new shade adjustments. Great color correction isn’t just about chemistry—it’s also about guiding your client to their desired result. Before beginning any color correction, ask yourself and the client these vital questions, as appropriate: ● Was the color done professionally or at home? Assessing hair type and condition As part of the consultation, consider the client’s hair type. Hair type affects how color and correction treatments absorb. Review and understand the client’s hair type before you begin: ● Kinky hair (Type 4) : Extremely fragile; use bond builders and deep conditioning ● Curly hair (Type 3) : Fragile and dry; needs hydration
CHAPTER 6: COMMON COLOR MISHAPS AND FIXES
and poorly executed balayage, color corrections demand technical knowledge, skill, patience, and a commitment to preserving the hair health and integrity. Let’s look at the most common color correcting issues with step-by-step solutions to restore balance, shine, and beautiful tone to your client’s hair.
Hair color can dramatically enhance a client’s appearance— but when it goes wrong, the result can be frustrating for both you and the client. When correcting color, it’s important to remember that color does not lift color. Attempting to lighten previously colored hair without first removing the old shade often results in uneven, dull, or brassy tones. From patchy applications to over-toned ends
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
Book Code: CNC0826
Page 2
Patchy or splotchy color Uneven or blotchy color results often occur when color is applied inconsistently or layered over previously colored areas without proper removal. Other causes may include uneven porosity, rushed application, or failure to account for lingering product buildup. The fix : Start by shampooing with a clarifying shampoo to strip away any residue or film that may prevent color from depositing evenly, and focus on evening out the inconsistencies (Société Salon, 2025). Fixing patchy hair color based on severity The best correction solution depends on how uneven the color is and what caused it. Check out this quick guide on how to handle patchiness at different levels. 1. Slight patchiness ○ Use a color-depositing mask to refresh and even tone. ○ Apply a toning gloss or glaze to boost shine and subtly blend uneven areas. 2. Moderate patchiness ○ Try a semi-permanent dye for gentler, more forgiving coverage. Hot roots Hot roots happen when the warmth of the scalp speeds up the color processing at the roots, resulting in brighter, warmer tones compared to the mid-lengths and ends. This is especially common in lightening or red shades (Murdock, 2025). But why do hot roots happen and how do you avoid them? Hot roots happen for one of two reasons: 1. Bleaching over previously colored hair Your client’s scalp warmth speeds up the lightening process at the roots. When applying a light shade or bleach over previously colored hair, the natural hair at the roots reacts faster than the dyed hair, resulting in uneven, overly bright roots. 2. First-time color Versus root retouch When dyeing your client’s hair for the first time, it’s acceptable to apply color from the roots to ends. But if you’re going lighter or using a bright or vivid shade, Banding (halo effect) Color banding or “halo” effect appears as rings or bands of color that are darker than the rest of the hair. This is caused by repeatedly applying permanent color over previously colored hair without proper lift or removal. The fix : Shampoo the hair two-three times with a clarifying shampoo to remove surface buildup and excess pigment. Apply a color remover specifically formulated to break up Recognizing the line of demarcation The line of demarcation is the visible boundary between two distinct hair colors or textures, often appearing at the roots. It typically results from new hair growth, previous color Minimizing the line of demarcation To soften these lines, and help correct banding, use blending methods like feathering, melting, or gradual color transitions. Matching shades to the hair’s natural pattern and Bad ombre/balayage When ombre or balayage goes wrong, it can result in harsh, disconnected stripes instead of the soft, natural transitions the techniques are meant to achieve.
Identify lighter or patchier areas and reapply the original color formula only to those sections but reduce the processing time. Blend carefully into adjacent sections for even saturation. Once these areas appear more balanced, apply a slightly deeper version of the target shade throughout to create a uniform finish. Always check hair’s porosity before proceeding with corrective color, and apply a porosity equalizer or protein spray when necessary. ○ Add highlights or lowlights to disguise inconsistencies and create a more balanced look. 3. Severe patchiness ○ Consider recoloring the entire head for the most even result. ○ Use a color remover to eliminate uneven dye buildup before recoloring. ○ If necessary, perform a bleach wash to lift remaining pigment—but proceed with caution to avoid further patchiness or damage (Freeman, 2023b). be cautious because scalp heat processes roots faster. In these cases, avoid all-over application with a single formula. Instead, apply color to mid-lengths and ends first, then finish with roots for even processing (Madison Reed, 2025). The fix : To neutralize the over-warm tone at the roots, mix a neutral or ash-based shade (to cancel out excess warmth) at the same level or one level darker than the original formula. Combine 2 ounces of color with 2 ounces of 10-volume developer and apply only to the root area. Monitor closely while processing to avoid over-darkening. Once tone is corrected, blend into mid-lengths if necessary to deliver a seamless transition. When formulating for high percentages of gray hair, add a half ounce to one ounce of a neutral base to help control warmth and ensure even coverage. artificial pigment. Avoid over-processing and always do a strand test. After removal, apply a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and elasticity. Reapply the hair color, selecting a shade that’s within one to two levels of the target tone to minimize further contrast. Seal with a gloss or glaze to smooth the cuticle, boost shine, and lock in even tone.
treatments, or differences in texture. Correcting it starts with understanding its cause and using techniques that blend the contrast seamlessly.
selecting tones that complement one another help create a smooth, cohesive result without harsh lines (Salonory Studio, 2024).
The fix : Begin by clarifying the hair to lift any residual toner or product that may exaggerate the striping, then proceed with these three steps:
Page 3
Book Code: CNC0826
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
1. Tone : Apply a toner to neutralize brassiness. Use cool- toned formulas like violet or ash to counteract unwanted orange or red undertones. 2. Re-lighten : If the balayage is patchy or too warm, carefully reapply lightener to the uneven areas for a more consistent blend. Use a blending technique like root smudging or wet balayage to melt tones together and blur transitions. Avoid placing lighteners too high on Color is too dark The hair absorbed more pigment than expected, or the formula was too deep for the client’s natural base or skin tone. The fix : Wash with a clarifying shampoo to fade the depth gently. If necessary, apply a color remover to lift excess Over-bleached hair When hair is overprocessed, the bleach was either left on too long or applied to already compromised hair, leaving it brittle, porous, and over-lightened. The fix : First, rehydrate the hair with a deep conditioning treatment or bond-building mask. Apply a demi-permanent Too red The underlying pigment lifted too warm, or the formula leaned too heavily on red or copper tones. This can also happen when trying to cover gray or when lifting dark bases. The fix : Start with a clarifying shampoo to fade the red intensity. Tone with a cool-based gloss, preferably one with Green ends Too much ash (blue or green base) applied to previously lightened or porous hair results in a murky green hue, especially on blonde ends. The fix : Lighten the ends slightly with a low-volume bleach wash to remove the ashy pigment. Apply a warm or neutral toner to restore natural balance. Use a protein treatment before toning to strengthen overly porous areas and ensure even absorption. While there are several possibilities that require the need for more in-depth color correction, these are the most common. Color correction is as much an art as it is a science. Success The color correction process In short, correcting color (on the most basic level) is a four- step approach that accomplishes the following:
the hair shaft when freehand painting—leave room for a natural transition from root to mid-lengths. 3. Add lowlights : Introduce lowlights to overly bright sections to add depth, soften contrast, and create a more natural, dimensional finish. Weave in lowlights that are one to three levels darker than the base to soften harsh lines and restore dimension.
artificial pigment. Once desired lightness is reached, reapply the target color using a shortened processing time or a diluted formula. Follow with a deep conditioning treatment to restore softness and prevent breakage.
gloss or toner to restore pigment and tone while avoiding additional lift. Choose shades with warm undertones to add richness without drying it out. Wait before further chemical processing, and use restorative treatments between services to protect the hair. green undertones, which neutralizes red tones on the color wheel. Apply a neutralizing glaze after the toner to seal the cuticle and extend toning longevity. Always consult the color wheel when correcting excessive warmth—green cancels red, blue cancels orange, and violet cancels yellow. depends on your ability to analyze the problem, select the right strategy, and protect the integrity of the hair at every step. Always start with the least aggressive method, and escalate only if necessary. Use the color wheel to guide your decisions, and never underestimate the power of clarifying shampoo, a good toner, and consistent conditioning. With these fixes, you’ll be prepared to tackle nearly any hair color issue—and leave your clients with desired results that are as healthy as they are beautiful.
1. Restores : Condition hair before applying any remover. 2. Removes : Use clarifying shampoo, then color reducer, stripper, and bleach as needed. 3. Neutralizes : Apply toner or glaze to balance remaining pigment. 4. Corrects : Give the client their desired color. Now that you understand the color corrective process, let’s dive into color theory. CHAPTER 7: UNDERSTANDING COLOR THEORY AND THE COLOR WHEEL
cool undertones to their skin. Matching warm hair colors with warm-toned skin, and cool shades with cool-toned skin, results in a flattering finish. Conversely, mixing tones can appear harsh or unnatural. Melanin determines skin pigment, and poor pairing of skin tone and hair color can look “off,” whether you’re working with natural hues or fantasy shades. For example, someone with cool undertones often looks best with cool colors like ash brown or violet-red, while warm undertones pair beautifully with golden blondes, copper reds, or warm purples and limes.
The color removal process doesn’t end once the unwanted pigment is lifted. Clients still want to achieve their original goal color—and avoiding a second color mishap means understanding the basics of color theory. Color theory is both a science and an art that plays a crucial role in hair coloring. It helps stylists select shades that not only correct color but also flatter a client’s skin tone and eye color. A cohesive color palette enhances natural features and ensures a harmonious look (Kakati, 2023). The color wheel, which consists of 12 colors, can be divided into warm and cool tones. Likewise, people have warm or
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
Book Code: CNC0826
Page 4
on yellow-blonde hair works only if the violet is properly balanced—too strong, and the hair turns purple; too weak, and the yellow remains. Color can also be used strategically to create depth and dimension. Mixing adjacent shades on the color wheel can give highlights and lowlights a more natural blend. If the hair is too fragile for an all-over color after removal, these techniques can achieve a refreshed look with less risk of damage. Generally, hair colors labeled “ash” or “platinum” are cool- toned, while “golden” and “mahogany” are warm-toned. For cool-toned skin, ash blonde, blue-black, or violet-red can be striking. Warm-toned skin is complemented by shades like caramel, golden blonde, or copper red. Understanding color theory ensures successful corrections, beautiful results, and happy clients.
Understanding how colors interact is vital. Every color has a complementary counterpart on the color wheel. These opposing shades cancel each other out—green neutralizes red, violet cancels yellow, and blue tones down orange. This concept is the foundation of color correction. The color wheel is broken down into the following four categories: ● Primary colors : Red, Yellow, Blue ● Secondary colors (two primaries mixed): Green (blue + yellow), orange (red + yellow), violet (red + blue) ● Tertiary colors (primary + secondary): Red-orange, blue- green, yellow-orange, etc. ● Complementary colors : Opposites that neutralize each other (e.g., yellow ↔ violet) When using complementary colors for correction, depth matters. The colors must be of similar intensity to cancel each other effectively. For instance, using a violet toner Consider whether the client has straight, wavy, curly, or kinky hair. Kinky hair is the most fragile, and bleach should be avoided. If there’s banding or uneven color, use lightener Hair density and texture Hair density refers to the number of hairs per square inch, while texture refers to the diameter of the strands. Fine hair processes color more quickly, while coarse hair requires Hair condition (porosity) Hair porosity affects how color and treatments are absorbed. Low porosity hair (tight cuticles) takes longer to process, while high porosity hair (lifted cuticles) absorbs color quickly Desired level of correction Determine how much of the current color the client wants to change. Hair color levels range from 1 (darkest) to 10 (lightest), and it's best not to shift more than two levels in one session. For lightening, use a clarifying shampoo Client health and medication The health of the client’s hair can be impacted by medications, smoking, and previous chemical processes. Medications like antidepressants or oral contraceptives can affect hair texture, while smoking can lead to yellowing Previous chemical processes Ask about any prior chemical treatments (such as perms, relaxers, or other color applications). These can affect the outcome of the removal process, and applying new color
CHAPTER 8: PREPARING FOR COLOR REMOVAL: KEY FACTORS TO CONSIDER Before performing any color removal process, assess your client’s hair type, condition, and any previous treatments to ensure the right approach. Different hair types require different processing times, and understanding these factors can prevent damage. Hair type
sparingly to blend, or opt for toner and lowlights if the hair is too damaged. Curly hair benefits from glazes that eliminate unwanted tones while improving texture.
longer processing times. Understanding how melanin is distributed in different textures will help in selecting the right color removal method.
but fades faster. For highly porous hair, use bond builders and conditioning treatments to avoid further damage.
first, followed by color removal or bleach, ensuring proper conditioning. If the client wants to go darker, remove the old color before applying a new shade.
and dullness, especially for blonde hair. In cases of severe damage or health-related issues, it’s often best to tone or glaze rather than use strong chemicals.
over unremoved old color may result in uneven results. For damaged hair, avoid harsh treatments and consider using toners or glazes instead.
CHAPTER 9: FIXING FOILS AND BALAYAGE
Low-lighting can also help by adding depth and disguising harsh stripes. First, use a clarifying shampoo to remove any old toner or glaze, then apply color one to two shades darker than the natural hair. Brassiness is another common issue that is often caused by under-processing during the lightening stage. If needed, re- lighten the hair—only after a strand test confirms it’s healthy enough. If the hair is light enough but still brassy, use a blue shampoo or toner. For over-ashy results, reformulate with a warmer toner and add a touch of red to balance it out.
Highlights can be applied with foils, caps, or freehand—but mistakes happen. If highlights appear spotty or striped, tone problem areas to blend them in. Root smudging is an effective technique for softening harsh lines by combing a darker shade into the roots using a 10-volume developer. Choose a color close to the natural base, no more than two shades lighter, and remember porous hair may absorb more color.
Page 5
Book Code: CNC0826
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
CHAPTER 10: WHEN THE BLONDE BOMBS
and red gloss or toner. Brassy or orange tones usually result from under-processing; tone with blue or purple products or re-lighten if the hair is strong enough. Going from dark to light requires multiple sessions—never lift more than two levels at once. If too much purple toner turns hair blue, a peach toner or glaze will cancel it out without making the hair yellow.
Lightening hair to blonde is both an art and a science, and issues are common. If the blonde is too light or ashy, use a clarifying shampoo to remove toner, apply a conditioning filler, then reformulate within two levels of the natural shade. If hair turns blue or purple from toner, rinse immediately and clarify—then add a touch of red to rebalance. Yellow tones are corrected with purple toner or shampoo. Green tones, often caused by chlorine, can be removed with mineral oil under heat, followed by a clarifying shampoo
CHAPTER 11: REMOVING HENNA AND HERBAL HAIR COLORS
darker, more flattering henna shade. For fading, start with a clarifying shampoo, then try oil treatments (coconut, olive, and argan oils under heat), which are gentle but slow. For stronger results, apply clear alcohol (like vodka) to break down metallic salts before oiling. Acidic ingredients like lemon juice or vinegar can help fade henna, but this will dry hair out, so always follow with oil and conditioner. Never promise full removal of henna; focus on safe, attractive correction and regrowth.
Henna is a natural but permanent hair dye made from Lawsonia inermis leaves. It stains the hair deeply, making it resistant to removal—even bleach and color removers can’t lift it. Many henna products also contain metallic salts, which can react dangerously with chemical dyes, causing heat, burns, or hair damage (Black Girl Curls, 2024). If a client wants to alter their henna-colored hair, explain that full removal is unlikely and the process may take several sessions. One solution however is to retone with a
CHAPTER 12: REMOVING FANTASY HAIR COLORS
Safer fading methods include the following: ● Clarifying shampoo ● Oil treatments (coconut, olive, argan—left on up to an hour) ● Color removers ● Gentle bleach (no peroxide) After lightening the stain as much as possible, use a glaze, toner, or darker shade to neutralize and correct the remaining color. Pay attention to the color wheel, be sure to choose colors from the opposite side of the wheel to neutralize and tone down the offending shades. Use a filler after color removal and before applying a new shade. Always deep condition the hair before and after the procedure.
Fantasy hair colors are fun—but when they go wrong, fixing them is tricky. Most vibrant shades require heavy lightening first, leaving hair dry and fragile even before color correction begins. Further bleaching or using a color stripper often causes too much damage, especially if the hair was lightened several levels. To correct fantasy colors, start with a clarifying shampoo, followed by a color remover (not a stripper). Bleach without hydrogen peroxide can help lift stubborn pigment more gently but should still be a last resort. Avoid trying to remove 100% of the color as preserving the hair’s health is the priority.
CHAPTER 13: RECTIFYING REDS
Red is a bold, beautiful hair color—but it’s also one of the easiest to get wrong. With a wide range of shades, choosing the right red for your client’s skin tone is crucial. Hair texture, porosity, and previous coloring can affect the final ruby Common red color problems and solutions Too dark or too red Porous, previously colored hair can grab too much pigment, making the red appear too deep. Start with clarifying shampoo, then apply a hot oil treatment. Follow with a color remover. Once faded, apply a filler, then a brown shade that matches the level of the original red. Process for 5–10 minutes, checking frequently. Too orange or brassy Clarify the hair, then use a purple or cool violet glaze or toner to neutralize brassiness and add shine. Uneven roots If virgin roots processed differently than the porous ends, use root smudging to blend. Root smudging is a technique used to buffer out lines of demarcation. It involves using a wide tooth comb with fine teeth to “smudge” the roots a darker color. A root touch-up or light balayage can also help. Deep condition the ends and finish with a glaze.
result, which often leads to uneven or unexpected tones. Always assess the hair’s condition and perform a strand test before applying color.
Hot roots (bright or orange roots) Caused by color lifting virgin roots more than processed hair. Apply a cool violet toner at the roots. If needed, blend with root smudging or a soft balayage. Faded color Results from under-processing or overly damaged hair. Apply a deep conditioning mask, then a filler and toning gloss to restore vibrancy. Murky, green, or blue tones Porous, pre-lightened hair can distort red color. Use clarifying shampoo, a color corrector, or a gentle stripper. Bleach should only be used as a last resort and must be paired with a bond builder. Follow with deep conditioning, a filler, and the appropriate gloss to neutralize. Flat, one-dimensional color Add movement and dimension with highlights, lowlights, or balayage.
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
Book Code: CNC0826
Page 6
Prevention tips The red dye molecule is large and fades quickly with shampooing. Advise clients to use cool water and a red- toning shampoo. Glazes between services can help maintain vibrancy. Always remove as much old color as possible
before reapplying red—layering color causes banding, where visible rings of uneven tones form. Proper analysis, color choice, and technique are key to red color success.
CHAPTER 14: BOTCHED BROWNS—CORRECTING BRUNETTE, BROWN, AND BLACK BLUNDERS
Going from blonde to brunette—or jet black to caramel— comes with unique challenges. Here are the most common mistakes and how to fix them. Avoiding warmth Blondes going darker often choose colors that are too cool, resulting in flat, lifeless hair. Instead, opt for browns with warm undertones to enhance the skin tone. If the result Flat color from roots to ends Natural brunettes have subtle variations in tone. Mimic this by blending a few similar shades when coloring. If the result Brassy, red, or orange tones A blue or violet toner usually neutralizes brassiness. If the hair is too warm for toner alone, start with a clarifying shampoo, follow with an oil treatment, then tone with a cool Color too dark Porous hair can absorb too much pigment, turning the color too dark. Wash with clarifying shampoo two to three times, then apply a deep conditioning mask. If needed, use a color Green ends When blondes go brunette with a cool, smoky brown, the result can be greenish ends. To correct this, use a clarifying shampoo, then a warm, red-based toner or glaze in the
looks dull, add lowlights or balayage and apply a warm glaze to restore dimension.
is still flat, apply a warm-based toner or add soft highlights for depth and movement.
glaze. Use a semi-permanent ash-based color to refresh overly warm ends.
remover. Recolor, staying within two shades of the natural color for best results. Finish with a glaze to seal and smooth the hair.
same level. Red cancels green and restores balance. Always follow with a conditioning treatment to protect hair integrity.
CHAPTER 15: GRAY AND SILVER TONES CHALLENGES AND CORRECTIONS
Gray hair is naturally resistant and often requires pre- softening to accept color effectively. It also comes with its own unique set of challenges. White hair turning green or purple This occurs when a color with too much ash or cool tone is applied to high percentages of white hair. Start by washing with a clarifying shampoo. Then reformulate the color by Client wants to transition back to natural gray Color strippers won’t restore the original gray shade. Instead of cutting the hair or enduring the grow-out phase, blend old color with the new gray using fine baby highlights Brittle or coarse gray hair Gray hair tends to be dry and fragile. Avoid all-over permanent color, bleach, or harsh strippers. Instead, use a deep conditioner followed by a colored glaze to restore Hot roots Hot roots are common with gray hair, especially if the formula is too warm or strong. Use a lower volume developer at the roots or select a slightly deeper color level.
adding up to 1 ounce of gold or neutral-based color at the same level. Reapply and monitor closely—processing time may be shorter (Sunday Salon, 2024).
throughout. Root smudging can soften the demarcation and create a more natural blend during the transition.
shine and add dimension. For more color variation, opt for gentle highlighting or balayage techniques.
If there’s a high percentage of gray, add ½ to 1 ounce of a neutral tone to the formula to ensure even coverage.
Page 7
Book Code: CNC0826
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
CHAPTER 16: AFTERCARE
Before using harsh removers, always try to neutralize color with a toner to minimize damage. If removers or bleach are necessary, condition the hair before and after, and gently dry hair before applying chemicals to reduce breakage. Have fun with color—if the result surprises you, stay calm, correct carefully, and focus on conditioning for healthy, beautiful hair.
A great colorist considers every factor before coloring hair. Yet, despite skill and care, sometimes the color turns out unexpected or unwanted. Many variables—medications, health, even vitamins—can affect how hair responds to coloring or removal. When this happens, remember, don’t panic. Hair color is correctable. Take it step by step and protect the hair’s health and integrity. All chemical processes cause some damage, with bleaching and color stripping being the most damaging. Clients will need extra care to maintain healthy hair and vibrant color. Provide them with toning shampoo, deep conditioning masks, and leave-in conditioners to use at home. Many colors can be refreshed between visits with toners or glazes.
WORKS CITED https://qr2.mobi/color-correction
COLOR CORRECTION: FROM THE BASICS TO ADVANCED TECHNIQUES Final Examination Questions
Select the best answer for each question and mark your answers on page 52. For faster service, complete your test online at EliteLearning.com/Book
6. What is a common issue when going from blonde to brunette? a. Bright red roots. b. Green or muddy ends. c. Over-lightened roots. d. Faded highlights. 7. When correcting unwanted green tones in hair, which color should be used based on the color wheel? a. Blue. b. Violet. c. Red. d. Yellow. 8. When dealing with extremely porous hair, which method is least recommended? a. Apply a filler. b. Deep condition. c. Apply bleach immediately. d. Use a glaze. 9. Which toner base is best for neutralizing orange tones in hair? a. Blue. b. Yellow. c. Red. d. Green. 10. What’s a good approach for a client transitioning from dyed hair to natural gray? a. Shave off the hair and start fresh. b. Add baby highlights and root smudging. c. Apply an all-over silver dye. d. Use permanent black to match the roots.
1. What is the best way to correct overly ashy or dull brunette hair? a. Add more ash-based color. b. Apply a warm-toned glaze or lowlights. c. Use a clarifying shampoo daily. d. Strip the color with bleach. 2. Why do “hot roots” occur when coloring hair? a. The ends were over-processed. b. The scalp’s heat processes the color faster at the roots. c. The developer was too weak. d. The hair was previously bleached. 3. What color base neutralizes green tones in the hair?
a. Red. b. Blue. c. Violet. d. Yellow.
4. What’s the safest first step to remove semi-permanent fashion colors? a. Bleach. b. Toner. c. Color stripper. d. Clarifying shampoo and oil treatment. 5. Why is it important to stay within one to two levels of the natural hair color when correcting a dark dye job? a. It helps maintain hair integrity and gives more natural results.
b. It avoids product build-up. c. It makes the color last longer. d. It helps lighten faster.
Course Code: CNC01CB
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
Book Code: CNC0826
Page 8
Chapter 2: Communication Skills for Salon Professionals 2 CE Hours
Course overview This course begins with communications. It is often said that good communication is the key to doing well in life and business. Several factors affect both direct and indirect communication. In this basic-level course, stylists will Learning objectives After completing this course, the learner will be able to: Describe all the factors that can affect communication in the salon. Identify strategies to build a strong client base. Affecting communication There are several factors that can affect communication, including the presence of a disability, choice of communication channels, the atmosphere, lack of feedback, and the ability of the receiver to communicate. Another important factor is the relationship between those communicating- is it strained? Comfortable? All of these factors will affect the way you communicate and receive information. Figure 1: Factors that Affect Communication
learn tips and tricks to help them improve and maintain their communication skills with clients, coworkers, and management.
Discuss the importance of meeting client expectations. List some methods of establishing professional boundaries with clients.
WORKING WITH CUSTOMERS
7. Always gain people’s permission to use their personal email. 8. Gain clarity around a company’s communication expectations, as companies’ policies and procedures will vary. 9. When speaking with a client on the phone, stylists should always paraphrase the customer’s request in order to ensure they have heard them correctly. For instance, the stylist may ask, “I understand you want/ need a partial highlight” or “Am I correct in that you want/need to schedule a thirty minute massage?” Interactive exercise The following interactive exercise helps individuals to identify areas in which their communication skills are strong, and the areas that could use some extra effort:
I Need More Work in this Area
Statement
Yes No
I feel confident in my direct, in-person communications with my clients. I feel confident in my direct in-person communications with my colleagues. I feel confident in my direct in-person communications with supervisors and owners. I feel confident in my telephone skills. I feel confident in my ability to write professional emails. I feel confident in my ability to communicate with professionalism in all situations. I am unconcerned about my direct or indirect communications skills.
In a professional salon environment, stylists will communicate with a broad range of individuals, including clients, colleagues, supervisors, and salon owners. Individuals communicate with different types of people in different ways. A conversation with a client is going to be far less formal than one’s communication with a supervisor or a salon owner. There will also be far more indirect communication with some people, while other people merit regular and direct communications. So, how can a professional improve their communication skills? Helpful tips 1. Always keep an even, calm, and professional tone. 2. No matter what the situation, never engage in angry communications in public. 3. Never use email or the phone to vent on someone. 4. Remember that anything typed in emails can be used as legal communications in court. 5. Direct communications are always preferable— breakdowns or confusion can occur in indirect communications such as email or text messaging. 6. Keep phone conversations and emails with clients brief and to the point.
Page 9
Book Code: CNC0826
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
Page i Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Page 23 Page 24 Page 25 Page 26 Page 27 Page 28 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 32 Page 33 Page 34 Page 35 Page 36 Page 37 Page 38 Page 39 Page 40 Page 41 Page 42 Page 43 Page 44 Page 45 Page 46 Page 47 Page 48 Page 49 Page 50 Page 51 Page 52 Page 53 Page 54 Page 55 Page 56Powered by FlippingBook