Prevention tips The red dye molecule is large and fades quickly with shampooing. Advise clients to use cool water and a red- toning shampoo. Glazes between services can help maintain vibrancy. Always remove as much old color as possible
before reapplying red—layering color causes banding, where visible rings of uneven tones form. Proper analysis, color choice, and technique are key to red color success.
CHAPTER 14: BOTCHED BROWNS—CORRECTING BRUNETTE, BROWN, AND BLACK BLUNDERS
Going from blonde to brunette—or jet black to caramel— comes with unique challenges. Here are the most common mistakes and how to fix them. Avoiding warmth Blondes going darker often choose colors that are too cool, resulting in flat, lifeless hair. Instead, opt for browns with warm undertones to enhance the skin tone. If the result Flat color from roots to ends Natural brunettes have subtle variations in tone. Mimic this by blending a few similar shades when coloring. If the result Brassy, red, or orange tones A blue or violet toner usually neutralizes brassiness. If the hair is too warm for toner alone, start with a clarifying shampoo, follow with an oil treatment, then tone with a cool Color too dark Porous hair can absorb too much pigment, turning the color too dark. Wash with clarifying shampoo two to three times, then apply a deep conditioning mask. If needed, use a color Green ends When blondes go brunette with a cool, smoky brown, the result can be greenish ends. To correct this, use a clarifying shampoo, then a warm, red-based toner or glaze in the
looks dull, add lowlights or balayage and apply a warm glaze to restore dimension.
is still flat, apply a warm-based toner or add soft highlights for depth and movement.
glaze. Use a semi-permanent ash-based color to refresh overly warm ends.
remover. Recolor, staying within two shades of the natural color for best results. Finish with a glaze to seal and smooth the hair.
same level. Red cancels green and restores balance. Always follow with a conditioning treatment to protect hair integrity.
CHAPTER 15: GRAY AND SILVER TONES CHALLENGES AND CORRECTIONS
Gray hair is naturally resistant and often requires pre- softening to accept color effectively. It also comes with its own unique set of challenges. White hair turning green or purple This occurs when a color with too much ash or cool tone is applied to high percentages of white hair. Start by washing with a clarifying shampoo. Then reformulate the color by Client wants to transition back to natural gray Color strippers won’t restore the original gray shade. Instead of cutting the hair or enduring the grow-out phase, blend old color with the new gray using fine baby highlights Brittle or coarse gray hair Gray hair tends to be dry and fragile. Avoid all-over permanent color, bleach, or harsh strippers. Instead, use a deep conditioner followed by a colored glaze to restore Hot roots Hot roots are common with gray hair, especially if the formula is too warm or strong. Use a lower volume developer at the roots or select a slightly deeper color level.
adding up to 1 ounce of gold or neutral-based color at the same level. Reapply and monitor closely—processing time may be shorter (Sunday Salon, 2024).
throughout. Root smudging can soften the demarcation and create a more natural blend during the transition.
shine and add dimension. For more color variation, opt for gentle highlighting or balayage techniques.
If there’s a high percentage of gray, add ½ to 1 ounce of a neutral tone to the formula to ensure even coverage.
Page 7
Book Code: CNC0826
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