CHAPTER 10: WHEN THE BLONDE BOMBS
and red gloss or toner. Brassy or orange tones usually result from under-processing; tone with blue or purple products or re-lighten if the hair is strong enough. Going from dark to light requires multiple sessions—never lift more than two levels at once. If too much purple toner turns hair blue, a peach toner or glaze will cancel it out without making the hair yellow.
Lightening hair to blonde is both an art and a science, and issues are common. If the blonde is too light or ashy, use a clarifying shampoo to remove toner, apply a conditioning filler, then reformulate within two levels of the natural shade. If hair turns blue or purple from toner, rinse immediately and clarify—then add a touch of red to rebalance. Yellow tones are corrected with purple toner or shampoo. Green tones, often caused by chlorine, can be removed with mineral oil under heat, followed by a clarifying shampoo
CHAPTER 11: REMOVING HENNA AND HERBAL HAIR COLORS
darker, more flattering henna shade. For fading, start with a clarifying shampoo, then try oil treatments (coconut, olive, and argan oils under heat), which are gentle but slow. For stronger results, apply clear alcohol (like vodka) to break down metallic salts before oiling. Acidic ingredients like lemon juice or vinegar can help fade henna, but this will dry hair out, so always follow with oil and conditioner. Never promise full removal of henna; focus on safe, attractive correction and regrowth.
Henna is a natural but permanent hair dye made from Lawsonia inermis leaves. It stains the hair deeply, making it resistant to removal—even bleach and color removers can’t lift it. Many henna products also contain metallic salts, which can react dangerously with chemical dyes, causing heat, burns, or hair damage (Black Girl Curls, 2024). If a client wants to alter their henna-colored hair, explain that full removal is unlikely and the process may take several sessions. One solution however is to retone with a
CHAPTER 12: REMOVING FANTASY HAIR COLORS
Safer fading methods include the following: ● Clarifying shampoo ● Oil treatments (coconut, olive, argan—left on up to an hour) ● Color removers ● Gentle bleach (no peroxide) After lightening the stain as much as possible, use a glaze, toner, or darker shade to neutralize and correct the remaining color. Pay attention to the color wheel, be sure to choose colors from the opposite side of the wheel to neutralize and tone down the offending shades. Use a filler after color removal and before applying a new shade. Always deep condition the hair before and after the procedure.
Fantasy hair colors are fun—but when they go wrong, fixing them is tricky. Most vibrant shades require heavy lightening first, leaving hair dry and fragile even before color correction begins. Further bleaching or using a color stripper often causes too much damage, especially if the hair was lightened several levels. To correct fantasy colors, start with a clarifying shampoo, followed by a color remover (not a stripper). Bleach without hydrogen peroxide can help lift stubborn pigment more gently but should still be a last resort. Avoid trying to remove 100% of the color as preserving the hair’s health is the priority.
CHAPTER 13: RECTIFYING REDS
Red is a bold, beautiful hair color—but it’s also one of the easiest to get wrong. With a wide range of shades, choosing the right red for your client’s skin tone is crucial. Hair texture, porosity, and previous coloring can affect the final ruby Common red color problems and solutions Too dark or too red Porous, previously colored hair can grab too much pigment, making the red appear too deep. Start with clarifying shampoo, then apply a hot oil treatment. Follow with a color remover. Once faded, apply a filler, then a brown shade that matches the level of the original red. Process for 5–10 minutes, checking frequently. Too orange or brassy Clarify the hair, then use a purple or cool violet glaze or toner to neutralize brassiness and add shine. Uneven roots If virgin roots processed differently than the porous ends, use root smudging to blend. Root smudging is a technique used to buffer out lines of demarcation. It involves using a wide tooth comb with fine teeth to “smudge” the roots a darker color. A root touch-up or light balayage can also help. Deep condition the ends and finish with a glaze.
result, which often leads to uneven or unexpected tones. Always assess the hair’s condition and perform a strand test before applying color.
Hot roots (bright or orange roots) Caused by color lifting virgin roots more than processed hair. Apply a cool violet toner at the roots. If needed, blend with root smudging or a soft balayage. Faded color Results from under-processing or overly damaged hair. Apply a deep conditioning mask, then a filler and toning gloss to restore vibrancy. Murky, green, or blue tones Porous, pre-lightened hair can distort red color. Use clarifying shampoo, a color corrector, or a gentle stripper. Bleach should only be used as a last resort and must be paired with a bond builder. Follow with deep conditioning, a filler, and the appropriate gloss to neutralize. Flat, one-dimensional color Add movement and dimension with highlights, lowlights, or balayage.
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