CHAPTER 3: HOW HAIR COLOR WORKS
● Cortex : The thickest part of the hair, where melanin resides and color changes occur ● Medulla : The innermost layer, influencing hair thickness Understanding how each type of color interacts with the hair is essential for effective application, correction, and maintenance—especially when working with previously colored or chemically treated hair. Let’s review different types of color.
Depending on the type of hair color you're working with, its chemical makeup and how deeply it penetrates the hair shaft determines how long the color lasts, how it fades, and how it is corrected or removed. Hair structure plays a critical role in how color behaves. Each strand of hair is made up of three layers: ● Cuticle : The outermost, translucent layer composed of overlapping scales Temporary and semi-permanent color Temporary and semi-permanent colors coat the cuticle with small color molecules and usually wash out after 6–12 Demi-permanent color Demis contain small amounts of peroxide, allowing some penetration into the cuticle. The color molecules are small enough to wash out over 18–24 shampoos. Permanent color These use higher levels of peroxide and other chemicals to open the cuticle and penetrate the cortex. Natural pigment
shampoos. They don’t affect the inner cortex or natural pigment.
is lifted and replaced with long-chain color molecules that can’t be washed out, although they may fade over time.
CHAPTER 4: TYPES OF COLOR REMOVERS
● Toners/toning shampoos : Least damaging; ideal first option ● Color reducers : Break down color molecules with minimal damage ● Color strippers : Stronger, harsher—like bleach, but targets color ● Bleach : Most aggressive and damaging; use a last resort because it removes natural hair pigment and artificial color (Freeman, 2023a). Color removers don’t restore natural pigment and won’t work on henna or semi-permanent colors. Always follow with a new color application.
Color removers work in various ways depending on the kind of color used and the condition of the hair. Some are formulated to gently shrink and dissolve artificial color molecules, while others aggressively strip pigment from the hair shaft. Color reducers are less damaging and ideal for mild or basic corrections. Strippers are stronger and better suited for stubborn, long-lasting colors. They pose a greater risk to hair health and should be only by professionals with advanced training. Understanding the differences between removers, reducers, and bleach-based products is essential for safely and effectively correcting unwanted color.
CHAPTER 5: CONSULTATIONS–ASKING ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS
● What type of color was used (semi, demi, permanent, henna)? ● How damaged is the hair? ● What other chemical processes have you applied? ● How much color needs removing? ● Is the client taking medication? ● Does the client smoke? Clients rely on your professional eye and knowledge—make sure your consultation sets the tone for success. ● Wavy hair (Type 2) : Balanced, but resistant to color; prone to frizz ● Straight hair (Type 1) : Varies in porosity and density; must be evaluated ● Virgin hair : Strong but resistant; needs longer processing time ● Damaged/porous hair : Prone to “grabbing” color; requires preconditioning and careful processing
The consultation is where client expectations are managed. Ask targeted questions—up front—to understand the client’s goal, disappointment with their current color, and openness to new shade adjustments. Great color correction isn’t just about chemistry—it’s also about guiding your client to their desired result. Before beginning any color correction, ask yourself and the client these vital questions, as appropriate: ● Was the color done professionally or at home? Assessing hair type and condition As part of the consultation, consider the client’s hair type. Hair type affects how color and correction treatments absorb. Review and understand the client’s hair type before you begin: ● Kinky hair (Type 4) : Extremely fragile; use bond builders and deep conditioning ● Curly hair (Type 3) : Fragile and dry; needs hydration
CHAPTER 6: COMMON COLOR MISHAPS AND FIXES
and poorly executed balayage, color corrections demand technical knowledge, skill, patience, and a commitment to preserving the hair health and integrity. Let’s look at the most common color correcting issues with step-by-step solutions to restore balance, shine, and beautiful tone to your client’s hair.
Hair color can dramatically enhance a client’s appearance— but when it goes wrong, the result can be frustrating for both you and the client. When correcting color, it’s important to remember that color does not lift color. Attempting to lighten previously colored hair without first removing the old shade often results in uneven, dull, or brassy tones. From patchy applications to over-toned ends
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