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What’s Inside
ALL COURSES SATISFY YOUR ELECTIVE REQUIREMENT Chapter 1: An Introduction to Chemistry in Cosmetics
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[1 CE Hour] This introductory course covers the basics of chemistry in cosmetics. In the U.S.A., there are over 12,500 unique chemical ingredients that are approved for use in manufacturing cosmetics, and thousands of cosmetics on the market with differing combinations of ingredients (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Researchers estimate that an average woman will place approximately 515 chemicals per day on their skin (Thomson Reuters, 2009). As a beauty expert, it is vital to understand the potential effects and efficaciousness of each chemical compound to design the
optimal skincare and hair care routine for each individual client. Chapter 2: Be In High Demand and Earn Your Worth
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[2 CE Hours] There is no big secret to success as a beauty professional. It just takes work to acquire skills and use them properly to suit the needs of your business. High-earning beauty professionals seemingly have a certain ‘something’ that you may or may not possess; however, some of the traits of high-earners are learned! Are you providing a service that leaves a positive impression on clients and visitors? If you have doubts about the quality of your service, this course teaches business techniques that will take your career to the next level. You can attain the wealth and knowledge of those who earn more per service. We will discuss what traits and behaviors will advance your career and give you an edge over the competition. We will evaluate several traits of high earning professionals and why these traits make the difference between taking a vacation yearly, or waiting on walk-ins every shift. Chapter 3: Communication Skills for Salon Professionals 14 [2 CE Hours]
This course begins with communications. It is often said that good communication is the key to doing well in life and business. Several factors affect both direct and indirect communication. In this basic-level course, stylists will learn tips and tricks to help them improve and maintain their communication skills with clients, coworkers, and management. Chapter 4: Eyelash Mania [2 CE Hours] This course will outline the preparation, cleansing and safety of eyelash enhancements. Additionally, this course will discuss the equipment, supplies and materials used in eyelash enhancements, as well as review cleaning and sanitation concepts. Chapter 5: Introduction to Oncology Esthetics [1 CE Hour] This course will help assist each student in understanding cancer in its simplest form. In addition to gaining an understanding of the fundamentals of Cancer, this course will also include the stages of Cancer, Cancer treatments and the side effects. The learner will also be able to recognize alternatives to help your client while he or she is undergoing cancer treatments and empower each student with the knowledge to perform informal skin cancer checks within the treatment room. Final Examination Answer Sheet
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©2024: All Rights Reserved. Materials may not be reproduced without the expressed written permission or consent of Colibri Healthcare, LLC. The materials presented in this course are meant to provide the consumer with general information on the topics covered. The information provided was prepared by professionals with practical knowledge in the areas covered. It is not meant to provide medical, legal or professional services advice. Colibri Healthcare, LLC recommends that you consult a medical, legal or professional services expert licensed in your state. Colibri Healthcare, LLC has made all reasonable efforts to ensure that all content provided in this course is accurate and up to date at the time of printing, but does not represent or warrant that it will apply to your situation or circumstances and assumes no liability from reliance on these materials. COSMETOLOGY CONTINUING EDUCATION Book Code: ENC0824 i
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Mandatory Subjects
24 Must complete 8 hours of CE per year during the 3-year licensing period (All hours are allowed through home-study)
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How much will it cost? If you are only completing individual courses in this book, use the code that corresponds to the course when completing online. Course Title Hours Price Course Code Chapter 1: An Introduction to Chemistry in Cosmetics 1 $7.00 CNC01CC Chapter 2: Be In High Demand and Earn Your Worth 2 $10.00 CNC02HD Chapter 3: Communication Skills for Salon Professionals 2 $10.00 CNC02CS Chapter 4: Eyelash Mania 2 $10.00 CNC02EM Chapter 5: Introduction to Oncology Esthetics 1 $7.00 CNC01ES Best Value - Save $24.01 - All 8 Hours 8 $19.99 ENC0824 How do I complete this course and receive my certificate of completion? See the following page for step by step instructions to complete and receive your certificate. Are my credit hours reported to the North Carolina board? No, the board performs random audits at which time proof of continuing education must be provided. What information do I need to provide for course completion and certificate issuance? Please provide your license number on the test sheet to receive course credit. Your state may require additional information such as date of birth and/or last 4 of Social Security number; please provide these, if applicable. Is my information secure? Yes! We use SSL encryption, and we never share your information with third-parties. We are also rated A+ by the National Better Business Bureau. What if I still have questions? What are your business hours? No problem, we have several options for you to choose from! Online at EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology you will see our robust FAQ section that answers many of your questions, simply click FAQs at the top of the page, e-mail us at office@elitelearning.com, or call us toll free at 1-866-344-0970, Monday - Friday 9:00 am - 6:00 pm, EST., and Sat. 10:00 am - 4:00 pm EST. Important information for licensees: Always check your state’s board website to determine the number of hours required for renewal, mandatory subjects (as these are subject to change), and the amount that may be completed through home-study. Also, make sure that you notify the board of any changes of address. It is important that your most current address is on file. Licensing board contact information: North Carolina Board of Cosmetic Art Examiners 121 Edinburgh South Drive, Suite 209 | Cary, North Carolina 27511 I Phone: (919) 736-6123 | Fax: (919) 678-3012 Website: https://www.nccosmeticarts.com/ ii
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iii
COSMETOLOGY CONTINUING EDUCATION
Book Code: ENC0824
Chapter 1: An Introduction to Chemistry in Cosmetics 1 CE Hour
By: Kimily Schwartz Learning objectives After completing this course, the learner will be able to: Employ the information in this course to design the optimal hair or skincare regime. Identify the eight key ingredients that are used to produce most cosmetics; and be able to describe the purpose of each to create the ideal regime for each individual client. Course overview This introductory course covers the basics of chemistry in cosmetics. In the U.S.A., there are over 12,500 unique chemical ingredients that are approved for use in manufacturing cosmetics, and thousands of cosmetics on the market with differing combinations of ingredients (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Researchers estimate that an average woman
Identify the twenty toxic chemicals and be able to explain why some are already banned, and others are on the FDA list as chemicals that should be banned. Examine the differences between the natural, organic, vegan, synthetic, and cruelty-free cosmetics; and compare the efficaciousness of each. will place approximately 515 chemicals per day on their skin (Thomson Reuters, 2009). As a beauty expert, it is vital to understand the potential effects and efficaciousness of each chemical compound to design the optimal skincare and hair care routine for each individual client.
PART 1: THE IMPORTANCE OF UNDERSTANDING CHEMISTRY IN COSMETICS
Understanding the principles of cosmetic chemistry is necessary to properly blend ingredients into a safe and effective product. Although the cosmetologist or esthetician typically uses products that have already been produced, it is vital to know the client’s needs, allergies, and even medications since they can cause an adverse reaction when certain chemicals are applied. Some products are synthetic, others are “natural,” vegan, or organic. Although a product may be labeled “natural,” the professional beautician must still be aware of the ingredients and the possible reactions that could impact the client. The cosmetics industry has sometimes led in scientific innovation; for example, it was one of the first to adapt the new features of nanotechnology by utilizing nanoparticles to improve the quality of products (Raj et al., 2012). Nanoparticles are particles of intermediate size somewhere between atoms and macroscopic materials. They have unique properties and are used in a wide range of products, including sunscreen, fragrance, and skincare. Cosmetic chemists earn both a science degree and an advanced degree in cosmetic chemistry before entering the field. They are highly trained and skilled at combining varying chemicals to achieve the results the public wants. Customers look to their beauty professional to provide the best advice as to what they should be using – if the expert does not understand the basics of cosmetic chemistry and how the varying combinations of chemicals can impact each individual client’s own distinct body chemistry, they will not be able to provide the best advice. Our skin is chemistry, and so are the products we use daily. Understanding the basics of cosmetic chemistry will help the professional avoid accidentally applying a product that could produce a severe reaction when combined with the client’s own unique chemistry and will aid the beautician in selecting the right products to create the desired results. So, let’s dive into the exciting world of chemistry in cosmetics. In the next chapter, we will cover the eight key ingredients that are blended into most of products currently available to the general public, as well as used in professional products.
Cosmetics have existed for over 10,000 years. In ancient Egypt, women used kohl, which contained galena, on their eyelids, and Cleopatra was known to bathe in milk to whiten and soften her skin (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). By the year 3,000 BC people in China began staining their fingernails to reflect their social class (Hopp, 2022). Greek women used a poisonous lead carbonate (PbCO3) to achieve a pale complexion. In Africa, clays were ground into a paste for cosmetic use. Indigenous Australians still use a wide range of crushed rocks and minerals to create body paint for ceremonies and initiations (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Today, cosmetics is a gigantic industry. Billions of dollars are spent annually on all types of cosmetics – skin care, hair care, fragrance and makeup are big business. Cosmetics is defined as a substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body (including the mouth and teeth; The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). So why, as a beauty expert, do you need an understanding of the basics of chemistry in cosmetics? Here are some reasons why it is crucial to have a basic understanding of the chemical compounds that make up the products you work with. In the United States, more than 12,500 unique chemical ingredients are approved for use in manufacturing cosmetics, and thousands of cosmetics on the market feature different ingredient combinations (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Most products contain anywhere from 15 to 50 different ingredients. Not all these chemicals in cosmetics are entirely safe – the FDA continuously regulates for safety, and some chemicals found in products currently on the shelves are listed on the FDA website as having the potential to be banned in the near future. Many people are switching to brands that advertise as vegan, organic, or all-natural, believing that these products are safer than synthetic brands. Combined with the fact that some clients are bound to be allergic to some chemicals that are blended into certain products, a professional skin- or hair-care expert must be aware of all factors before applying any substance to their client’s skin or hair.
PART 2: KEY INGREDIENTS
Most skin care products can be created by combining the following eight key ingredients with other specific chemicals and additives blended into the compound:
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Water Water forms the basis of almost every cosmetic product (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Water (H2O) acts as a solvent to dissolve the other ingredients and helps in forming emulsions for consistency. This water is not tap water – it must be ultra-pure, free from toxins, microbes, and other pollutants. The product’s label can refer to H2O as aqua, distilled, or purified. Water is a terrific multi-tasker, as it serves as both an emollient and a binding ingredient. H2O is also an emulsifier, which can also be used for stabilization purposes. In addition, water is often used Emulsifiers Emulsifiers can be defined as any ingredient that helps to keep unlike substances (such as oil and water) from separating (de Gruchy, 2022). Emulsifiers change the surface tension between the oil and water to produce a homogeneous and well-mixed product with an even texture. Shaking and stirring will not blend the product without the addition of emulsifiers. Some examples of common emulsifiers that can be used to create products are: Polysorbates Polysorbates are chemical compounds often used in fragrance products and as emulsifying agents and surfactants in cosmetics. Polysorbates start out as harmless sorbitol, but it’s treated with ethylene oxide (which is carcinogenic; Essential Wholesale Resource Library, n.d.). Polysorbates have also been found to be laced with heavy metals, so their safety for human use has been hotly debated. Extremely allergic reactions to this chemical are rare, but they do happen. INCI A much safer, as well as organic, emulsifying agent is INCI: Cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate (Francombe, 2020). INCI has been accepted by Ecocert and most organic certifiers. It is a natural emulsifier derived from natural olive chemistry. INCI works as both an emulsifier and a thickener and is compatible with a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients. Laureth-4 Laureth-4 is another chemical commonly used as an emulsifier. It can be found in products such as cleansers, deodorants, moisturizers, cuticle softeners, hair products, and sunscreen (The Dermatology Review, 2023). Laureth-4 can also work as a surfactant-emulsifying agent, while its sister chemical Laureth-23 can be used as a surfactant, stabilizer, and solubilizer. Laureth ingredients are synthesized through a process known as ethoxylation : A chemical reaction in which ethylene oxide is added to a substrate, which in this case is laurel alcohol. Laurel alcohol is obtained from a saturated fatty acid with a 12-carbon atom chain known as lauric acid . Lauric acid can be derived from natural ingredients such as coconut or palm kernel oil. Laureth-4 works by lowering the surface tension between two substances. One end of the molecule is hydrophilic (attracted to water), and one end is lipophilic (attracted to oil). Laureth-4 can be used as a surfactant or an emulsifier with a hydrophile- lipophile balance (HLB) of 9.7. An HLB of less than 10 means that the substance will be soluble in oil. Low HLB emulsifiers such as laureth-4 are often used to create water-in-oil emulsions. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) considers Laureth-4 to be a safe ingredient in cosmetics – but only when formulated to be non-irritating. This is because the laureth ingredients have the potential to irritate the skin due to the presence of ethylene oxide. Laureth-4 is created through the process of ethoxylation: This process creates a byproduct called 1,4-dioxane . 1,4-dioxane is a known animal carcinogen that can easily penetrate the skin. The National Toxicology Program states that “1,4 -dioxane is reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen.” It has also been linked to skin allergies. Preservatives Preservatives extend the shelf life of cosmetics. If a product is preservative-free, be aware of a shorter shelf life and any changes in the look, feel, or odor that may indicate that it has
to create liposomes . Liposomes, by definition, are tiny pieces of water (tiny bubbles) surrounded by a lipid bilayer (Pitt et al., 2008). They can easily be created in the laboratory by vigorously mixing a solution of amphipathic molecules into the water. An amphipathic molecule is a chemical compound that contains both hydrophilic (water-loving, polar) and lipophilic (fat-loving, non-polar) properties. In cosmetic formulations, liposomes are used as a delivery system – carrying the other active ingredients in the compound to the deeper layers of the dermis. The Organic Consumers Organization has released a fact sheet on 1,4-dioxane based on research provided by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. The research showed that the levels of 1,4-dioxane found in many cosmetics and personal care products are 1,000 times higher than those found to cause cancer in animal studies. Studies have proven that dioxane easily penetrates both animal and human skin. On the upside – the potential presence of 1,4-dioxane can be removed by a purification process before it’s blended into the product. Because 1,4-dioxane is produced during the manufacturing process, the FDA does not require it to be listed on cosmetic ingredients listings. To avoid putting this harmful contaminant on the skin, look for ingredients known to contain 1,4-dioxane, such as sodium laureth sulfate, PEG compounds, and ingredients that include xynol, ceteareth, and oleth. Products that are certified as 100% organic do not contain these chemicals, as organic standards prohibit the ethoxylation process. Potassium cetyl phosphate Potassium cetyl phosphate is another commonly used emulsifying agent (Paula’s Choice, n.d.). This ingredient can be used as both a surfactant and an emulsifier. It can be found in shampoos, facial cleansers, exfoliants, sunscreens, moisturizers, and makeup removers. Potassium cetyl phosphate is typically used as an oil-in-water anionic emulsifier in cosmetic preparations. This ingredient is the potassium salt of a complex mixture of esters of phosphoric acid and cetyl alcohol, a multi- functioning fatty alcohol. It is classified as an alkyl phosphate. The ingredients in the alkyl phosphate family share a common phosphate core structure and vary by the identity of the alkyl chains that are attached. These chains can range from 8 to 22 carbons in length. The Cosmetics Database rates potassium cetyl phosphate as a 100% safe ingredient; but be aware that one of its ingredients – cetyl alcohol – can be an irritant when used on sensitive skin. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel reviewed the safety of 28 alkyl phosphate ingredients commonly used in cosmetics (including potassium cetyl phosphate). The panel concluded that these ingredients are safe for use in the current practices and amounts if they are specifically formulated to be non-irritating. Despite the approval from the CIR, many medical experts believe that the cetyl alcohol component of potassium cetyl phosphate can be an irritant to sensitive skin. Synthetic fatty alcohols (such as cetyl alcohol) are thought to alter the lipid bilayer of the epidermis, causing allergic dermal reactions. If you have a client with sensitive skin or skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea, it is best to either avoid products containing this ingredient or perform a patch test before applying. Potassium cetyl phosphate is commonly added to cosmetic compounds to create oil-in-water emulsions. This ingredient provides good stability with a broad range of oil blends, as well as water-resistant sun protection.
gone bad (Anderson, 2019). Preservatives prevent the growth of microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, which can spoil the product and possibly harm the user. Products can contain either
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Book Code: ENC0824
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it is also an eye irritant. Prolonged or repeated exposure can cause allergic contact dermatitis, so avoid using any products containing benzyl alcohol on your clients with sensitive skin or skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis. The MSDS also states that this preservative may be toxic to the liver and central nervous system. Benzyl alcohol can be found in nature – many plants, fruits, and teas contain it as a natural component. Unfortunately, you won’t find the natural version in most cosmetics. Instead, manufactures whip up the cheaper synthetic version in their laboratories by mixing benzyl chloride with sodium hydroxide . Exposure to this ingredient can be extremely dangerous to young children; in 1982 benzyl alcohol was linked to the deaths of 16 premature infants in two separate hospitals (CDC, 1982). Most baby products, including shampoos, soaps, lotions, and wipes stopped using benzyl alcohol in their products, but it’s always best to check the labels (McDonough, 2022). Also be aware of products that simply list “fragrance” as an ingredient, as benzyl alcohol is considered a fragrance, and fragrances are protected as proprietary formulas, so they do not have to list the individual ingredients. Salicylic acid The FDA has approved salicylic acid for use as a preservative in cosmetics, and the European Union’s (EU) Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) originally approved its use in cosmetics only for preservative purposes with maximum levels of up to 0.5% (Chemicalwatch, n.d.). Products for children under 3 years of age and sprayable products where consumers could be accidentally exposed are prohibited to include salicylic acid in their compounds. Salicylic acid is also known as 2-hydroxybenzoic acid and can be found in willow tree bark (Cosmetics & Toiletries, 2021). This preservative can also be found in a multitude of products, including face and eye makeup, fragrance, hair care, hair color, bath and nail products, sunscreen, and skin care. Salicylic acid has been banned in Europe due to its link to causing Reye’s syndrome, but the FDA has approved its use in the United States. Formaldehyde Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring substance made of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen (Fevola, 2013). Humans produce about 1.5 ounces of formaldehyde per day as a normal part of our metabolism. Inhaled formaldehyde is rapidly metabolized, converted to carbon dioxide, and exhaled – it does not build up in the body. Low levels of formaldehyde also occur naturally in fruits and vegetables. Formaldehyde-releasers are used in tiny amounts as preservatives in cosmetics – slowly releasing small, safe amounts of formaldehyde over time to prevent mold and bacteria from forming in (and spoiling) the products. Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring chemical that nearly every living animal and plant produces. Worldwide, low levels of formaldehyde are deemed safe as a preservative in cosmetics. High levels of this chemical can be dangerous, causing problems such as skin irritation, sensory irritation, asthma, and other breathing difficulties; chronic high exposure has been known to cause cancer. Formaldehyde also goes by the following names: Formalin; morbicid acid; methylene oxide; methylaldehyde; and methylene glycol. This chemical can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, hair-straightening products, cream cleansers, moisturizers, and eyelash glue. Tetrasodium EDTA (ethylenediaminetetra-acetic acid): Tetrasodium (EDTA) and its related salts are widely used as preservatives in soaps, shampoos, conditioners, hair dyes, hair lighteners, and many other cosmetic products (Gianni, 2022). EDTA is a water-soluble ingredient that is used as a chelator to bind certain mineral ions to deactivate them. EDTA and its related ingredients work by binding these metal ions to prevent deterioration, maintain product clarity, protect fragrance, and prevent rancidity. By binding with the metal ions, EDTA prevents the metals from being deposited into the hair, skin, or scalp.
natural or synthetic preservatives in amounts ranging anywhere from 0.001% to up to 5%. Following is some of the more commonly used preservatives: Parabens Parabens are a group of chemicals that have been widely used in cosmetics since the 1920s (Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, n.d.). They are highly effective in preventing the growth of fungi, bacteria, and yeast in cosmetic compounds. Cosmetics typically contain mixtures of differing types of parabens, the most common being methy-, ethyl-, propyl, isopropyl, butyl- , and isobutylparaben . Parabens are commonly found in such products as moisturizers, facial cleansers, sunscreen, shampoos, conditioners, and makeup. They are still labeled as “safe,” but due to findings from newer scientific studies, the FDA has added them to the list of ingredients to be further investigated for safety. Current research suggests that parabens can disrupt hormones in the body and cause harm to both male and female reproductive organs and fertility, affect birth outcomes, and increase the risk of cancer (Stoiber, 2019). Researchers conducting animal studies found that developmental exposure to butylparaben harmed male reproduction by lowering testosterone levels and decreasing sperm count. Even very low doses of up to 10 mg/kg of body weight per day caused a decrease in sperm count. Studies conducted at Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health linked butylparaben and total urinary paraben levels to decreased fertility in women, increased odds of premature birth, and decreased birth weight on the fetuses that were exposed through the mother’s cord blood. Research has shown that people using products containing topical applications of paraben have up to 20 times the levels of propylparaben in their urine than normal. Paraben can also interfere with the production of hormones. Propylparaben can alter the expression of genes and accelerate the growth of breast cancer cells. A recent University of California-Berkeley study found that even low doses of butylparaben (that were previously considered safe) worked in conjunction with other cell receptors to switch on cancer genes and increase the growth of breast cancer cells. The UN Environment Programme has identified the entire group of parabens as potential endocrine disrupters. The Danish Centre on Endocrine Disruptors have identified butyl- and isobutylparaben as endocrine disruptors. Parabens can also cause skin irritation. Parabens also cause ecological damage. Low levels of butylparaben can kill coral, and paraben has been found in surface waters, as well as fish and sediments. Many major retailers in the U.S. have either banned products containing parabens or are in the process of having these products removed from their shelves. Given all the bad news popping up in the latest findings, paraben might be a great ingredient to skip until the FDA completes its testing. Benzyl alcohol Benzyl alcohol is an aromatic alcohol used in a wide variety of cosmetics as a fragrance component, solvent, viscosity- decreasing agent, and preservative (Nair, 2001). The World Health Organization (WHO) established acceptable daily intakes at 5 mg/kg, and both the FDA and the CIR have deemed benzyl alcohol to be “safe” at levels up to 5% in cosmetics and up to 10% in hair dyes. Neither the FDA nor the CIR factored in the duration and frequency of use when conducting their studies. In Europe, this ingredient is only allowed as a preservative in cosmetics at a maximum concentration of up to 1%. Europe considers amounts of over 1% to be dangerous, while the U.S. allows from 5 to 10%. Many experts maintain that the current safety tests are not adequate to support benzyl alcohol’s safety in formulations where inhalation is a route of exposure. Because this product has a pleasing floral-like scent, odds are good that your clients will smell the product, thereby inhaling the ingredients. The Material Data Safety Sheet (MSDS) states that benzyl alcohol is a skin irritant, potentially causing pain and redness, and that
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The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the available scientific data and concluded that EDTA and its related ingredients are safe for use in cosmetic products. It received a “2” rating with a low overall health hazard. However, this chemical has been known to cause eczema in individuals with sensitive skin and is also a potent eye Thickeners Thickening agents work to give products an appealing consistency. There are four different chemical families of Lipid thickeners are usually solid at room temperature; they can be liquified and added to cosmetic emulsions. These ingredients impart their natural thickness to the formula (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). One example of a lipid thickener is cetyl alcohol which has also been approved for use in food products. Cetyl alcohol is derived from coconuts and can also be found naturally in other plants as well as animals. It can also be produced in a laboratory. Cetyl alcohol is soothing for the skin and has been designated as one of the least irritating and most non-toxic skin care ingredients available. In lotions and creams, it works as an emulsifier and thickening agent, and when added to shampoos and conditioners, it enhances viscosity and moisturization. This ingredient can be found in shampoos, conditioners, hair dyes, skin creams and lotions, hair removal products, hair mousse, sunscreen, and mascara. Stearic acid is another commonly used lipid thickener. Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated 18-length carbon length fatty acid that is derived from animal or plant fats and oils. This ingredient is used in over 3,200 skin, hair, and cosmetics products in the U.S. alone. The word stear is Greek for “tallow,” and this valuable saturated fatty acid is the main ingredient in both cocoa and shea butter. It is an effective thickener, stabilizer, and softener that is cooling to the skin (New Directions, n.d.). Stearic acid works as an emollient to protect the epidermis from water loss and improve the skin’s protective barrier. Both the FDA and the CIR Expert Panel have found stearic acid to be safe for use in cosmetics. Carnauba wax Carnauba wax is another commonly used lipid thickener. This ingredient is hypoallergenic and very emollient – perfect for use as a thickener in skin-care products. Carnauba wax is typically used in face creams, sunscreens, and various makeup products. It is a natural vegetable wax derived from the leaves of the carnauba tree. Carnauba wax can also be listed under the following names: Brazil wax; ceara wax; and palm wax. This ingredient acts as a natural binding agent that stretches a product’s holding power, making it ideal for use in products such as hair-styling waxes, as well as ointments that must remain on the skin for long periods of time (Ataman Chemicals, n.d.). When added to makeup, this ingredient provides easy spreadability, preventing the products from becoming stiff and allowing them to glide smoothly across the skin. Naturally derived thickeners thickening agents: Lipid thickeners These are thickeners that come from nature. They are polymers that absorb water and swell up, thereby adding viscosity to products (Essential Wholesale and Labs, 2022). If the product comes out too thick, water or alcohol (solvents) can be added to dilute the products. Some commonly used naturally derived thickeners include gelatin; locust bean gum; guar gum; hydroxyethyl; cellolose; and xanthan gum. These thickeners Moisturizers Moisturizers (also commonly known as emollients ) soften the skin by preventing water loss. The term emollient comes from the Latin “mollis” or “molle” which translates to “soft” or “supple” (Deckner, 2023). These moisturizing ingredients are used in a wide range of lipsticks, lotions, and cosmetics. Some commonly used emollients are natural oils such as: Coconut oil; argan oil; almond oil; shea butter; cocoa butter; jojoba; squalene;
irritant. It is slow to degrade, making it a poor choice for anyone concerned about the environment. It is a synthetic ingredient and can be listed under any of the following names: Edetate sodium; tetrasodium edetate; tetrasodium salt; and TEA-EDTA.
can be used in any product containing high amounts of water. Unfortunately, these ingredients tend to be inconsistent and can cause clear products to become cloudy or sticky. Mineral thickeners Mineral thickeners are also naturally derived. They absorb water and oil to increase viscosity but give a different emulsion that the gums (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Some examples of mineral thickeners commonly used in cosmetic compounds include magnesium aluminum silicate, silica, and bentonite. Magnesium aluminum silicate can be used as both a thickener and an absorbent. Due to its natural anti-caking abilities, it is ideal in preventing powders from clumping. The CIR deems this ingredient safe for use in cosmetics, as the molecules it’s comprised of are too large to be absorbed by the skin. Silica is a mineral that is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and skin care formulations. Silica can be found naturally in sandstone, clay, and granite, but can also be produced synthetically. All silicas are silicon dioxide, and there are various forms of silica, which unfortunately creates confusion as one of the forms – crystalline silica – is widely known as an irritant. This is usually not the form of silica that is used when creating cosmetic compounds. As labeling laws can be vague, many times a product will simply list “silica” as an ingredient, leaving the consumer to wonder if the product contains this abrasive ingredient, or if it simply contains one of the safer silicas. If your client has sensitive skin, it might be best to avoid products containing silica. Bentonite is a natural clay that’s derived from volcanic ash. It is commonly used in facial masks, cleansers, and makeup. The International Journal of Toxicology released a report deeming bentonite as safe for use in cosmetics (Johnson et al., 2013). However, it does present some inhalation dangers. Mixing it with liquids generally mitigates the risk of inhalation, but when it is in powder form, take care when adding to liquids. Synthetic thickeners Synthetic thickeners are often used in creams and lotions. The most common is carbomer , an acrylic acid polymer that is water- soluble and can be used to form clear gels (Chemistry Corner, 2022). Carbomers are a series of synthetic polymers primarily made from acrylic acid. They can be found in a wide range of products including styling gel, moisturizer, eye cream, sunscreen, shampoos, cleansers, and scrubs. Carbomers have been used in creating cosmetic formulas for over 50 years. The carbomer polymers can have varying pH levels that must be neutralized before they are used as thickening agents. Varying the amount of carbomer used in a product allows the manufacturer to create a wide range of products – everything from stiff styling gels that keep the hair exactly where you want it, to a thick lotion that still retains the ability to glide on smoothly. The CIR Expert Panel ran dermal clinical studies and concluded that carbomer is a safe ingredient when added to cosmetic formulations.
sunflower; palm oil ; and olive oil . There are also several esters that are categorized as emollients, including myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate , and lauryl laurate . Other commonly used emollients include petroleum jelly, glycerin, butyl stearat e, and diglycol laurate . The following emollients are routinely used in cosmetic compounds:
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● Esters are the result from the reaction of polyols or alcohols with acids (Pelonara, 2020). They are naturally derived, and most of the esters used in cosmetic products are non- sensitizing and quite beneficial for dry skin. They replace the natural fatty esters found within the skin, helping to smooth and protect. Esters are natural, sustainable, and provide a whole host of benefits. ● Ethers are organic compounds containing oxygen atoms connected to two aryl or alkyl groups. They are similar in structure to water (Johnson et al., 2013). The CIR Expert Panel have deemed ethers safe for use in cosmetics. ● Fatty acids are monocarboxylic acids with a chain link that is bigger than seven carbons. Fatty acids are the main components of many natural oils and are used to create thousands of types of cosmetic ingredients. They are naturally occurring and sustainable. Common sources of fatty acids include natural oils like coconut, palm kernel, soybean, and sunflower. ● Fatty alcohols are organic compounds that attach a hydroxyl group to a carbon that can be branched, saturated, or unsaturated (Deckner, 2022). They can be found in many plants and animals, mainly as esters. These ingredients Coloring agents Coloring agents are added to products to either impart color to the product or to the skin (Weisz, 2007). There is a wide range of substances that can be used to add color to cosmetics. Coloring agents come in two main groups: Colorants and pigments . Colorants are soluble (in water and oil) synthetic organic coloring agents. They are used to color such products as skin care and makeup. Pigments are insoluble coloring agents and remain in the form of crystals or particles. Coloring agents can be comprised of: ● Mineral ingredients such as mica flakes, iron oxide, manganese, chromium oxide, and talc, which are ground and milled into tiny particles to create makeup (WebMD, n.d.). A key difference between mineral makeup and conventional makeup is what’s not in the product: Mineral makeups generally do not contain preservatives, emollient oils, wax, or fragrance, making them ideal for clients with sensitive skin. Be aware – just because a product is labeled “natural” does not meant it contains 100% natural ingredients. If the label states “mineral enriched” the product may contain chemicals such as paraben preservatives or dimethicone. Fragrance Both natural and synthetic chemicals can be used to create appealing fragrances (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Even unscented products may contain masking fragrances to cover the smell of other chemicals in the compound. “Fragrance” is often used by manufacturers as a generic term. A single listing of “fragrance” on the product’s ingredient list can contain dozens or even hundreds of chemical compounds used to create that fragrance. Manufacturers do not have to list these individual ingredients as they are protected as “trade secrets.” PH stabilizers Healthy skin is covered in an acid mantle that has a pH balance of 4.7-5.9. Healthy hair is also acidic (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). When we deviate too much from the healthy pH range, we see problems such as dry, flaky skin, or damaged, dehydrated hair. Stabilizers maintain the function and activity of other ingredients in the compound to check excessive acidity or alkalinity of the product. Adding a stabilizer to the cosmetic formulation will aid emulsion stability and improve the shelf life of the emulsions. Since many cosmetics are mixtures of oil and water, it is necessary to add ingredients that are specifically meant to stabilize the formula. Signs of instability in a product
are non-irritating and are beneficial for dry skin. They are frequently used in oil-in-water skin-care emulsions and hair- conditioning products. The CIR Expert Panel has concluded that fatty alcohols are safe for use in cosmetic products. ● Hydrocarbons are carbon structures that only carry carbon and hydrogen groups (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). They are widely used in cosmetics for their excellent emollient properties and are noted for their purity, non- reactivity, and inertness. They are organic compounds consisting entirely of hydrogen and carbon. They are mainly used in lipsticks, lip gloss, and lip balm, but can also be found in skin- and hair-care products. They can appear on the ingredients list as mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, paraffinum liquidum, ceresin, or ozokerite. Hydrocarbons have been deemed safe for use in cosmetics; however, petrolatum, which is a byproduct of petroleum refining, is not always fully refined in the U.S., meaning it can be contaminated with toxic chemicals called polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons , which have been linked to cancer. Most hydrocarbons found on Earth naturally occur in petrolatum, where the decomposed organic matter provides an abundance of carbon and hydrogen. The size of the particles used to create pearly and shimmering looks affects the degree of glimmer in the product. The smaller the particle size, the less luster the powder has and the more coverage it gives. Larger particles – up to 500 – microns are more transparent and give an extra glittery luster. Inorganic metal oxide pigments are usually duller than the organic pigments but are more resistant to heat and light to provide longer lasting color. ● Natural colors can come from plants (such as beet powder) or animals, like the cochineal insect, which is listed in ingredients as carmine, cochineal extract, or natural red 4. ● Pigments can be divided into two main categories: Organic, which are carbon-based molecules, and inorganic , which are generally metal oxides (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Inorganic should not be confused with synthetic, as most of the inorganic metal oxide pigments do occur naturally. The two most common organic pigments are lakes and toners . Lake pigments are created by combining a dye color with an insoluble substance (such as alumina hydrate) which causes the dye to become insoluble in water – making it perfect for waterproof makeup. A toner pigment is an organic pigment that has not been combined with any other substance. There are over 3,000 chemicals used to formulate the huge range of available fragrances worldwide. Consumers who are concerned about the individual ingredients that aren’t listed should look for either fragrance-free products or manufacturers that provide a more comprehensive list. Fragrances can be added to anything – creams, lotions, etc. – and the entire group of chemicals can be lumped together as simply “fragrance” on the ingredients list. include changes in color, scent, or separation of ingredients. Some of the commonly used stabilizers include: ● Candililla wax : A plant-based wax and a vegan ingredient. ● Cetyl alcohol : A fatty alcohol used as an emulsion stabilizer. ● Glucose oxidase : A stable enzyme commonly used to stabilize cosmetic formulations. ● Sclerotium gum : An efficient thickener, emulsifier, and stabilizer. ● Arrowroot powder : An organic ingredient, this powder comes from the white root of the arrowroot plant.
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Book Code: ENC0824
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It is vital that the professional cosmetologist or esthetician understands which ingredients are considered safe and which are best avoided. Understanding the chemical reaction between each client’s unique body chemistry and the products can help
avoid unwanted skin reactions and hair disasters. With that in mind, in the next chapter we will cover the toxic chemicals that should be avoided. These chemicals can still be found in products.
PART 3: TOXIC AND POTENTIALLY HARMFUL INGREDIENTS
● Diethylhexyl phthalate : Studies have shown that this chemical can harm the reproductive system and can affect a developing fetus. ● Carbon black : This chemical has been classified by the International Research Agency for Research on Cancer as a possible carcinogenic. ● Artificial fragrance : Manufacturers are not required to reveal what ingredients are used to create the fragrance, so the consumer is left to guess what concoction of chemicals the product contains. ● Sodium laurel sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate : These can cause skin irritations and trigger allergies. In addition, chemical compounds known as nitrosamines – which are carcinogenic – are a common byproduct of the sulphation process. ● Polyetylene glycol (PEG) : PEG is often contaminated with both ethylene oxide (a known carcinogen) and 1.4-Dioxane (causes respiratory problems). ● Diethanolamine : This foaming agent is usually listed as DEA on the ingredients list. It’s a known carcinogen and respiratory toxin, and the EU has restricted its use in personal care products. In the United States it can easily be found in bubble bath, body wash and shampoo. ● Oxybenzone : The most common sunscreens on the market use oxybenzone; it can also be found in lipsticks, moisturizers, and makeup. This toxic chemical is a known endocrine disruptor; it can alter thyroid function; and it has been linked to skin allergies.
The FDA is America’s watchdog for contaminants in not only our food, but in the products, we use daily on our hair, skin, and body (Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, n.d.). Many toxic ingredients that were once used in cosmetics are now banned, but the “Watch List” still features a long list of ingredients that are best to avoid when purchasing cosmetics. Here are the Top 20 Toxic Ingredients to Avoid: ● Formaldehyde (in high amounts): A carcinogen when used in high levels, deemed safe by the FDA in low amounts. ● Mercury : This chemical can damage the kidneys and nervous system. ● Lead : A potent neurotoxin. ● Asbestos : A known carcinogen. ● Isobutylparaben : An endocrine disruptor that can harm the male reproductive system. ● Isopropylparaben : An endocrine disruptor that can mimic estrogen. ● Butylparaben : An endocrine disruptor that can harm the male reproductive system. ● Propylparaben : An endocrine disruptor that can mimic estrogen. ● Toluene : Toxic to the brain and nervous system. ● Chemicals that release formaldehyde : Products containing certain formaldehyde releasers have now been banned in many major stores and retail chains. ● Triclosan : Affects the thyroid. ● Per- and polyflouroalkyl substances (PFAS) : These chemicals have been linked to cancer. ● Dibutyl phthalate : An endocrine disruptor.
PART 4: NATURAL, ORGANIC, VEGAN, AND SYNTHETIC-FREE COSMETICS
contaminated with heavy toxic metals, and some essential oils trigger allergic reactions. Organic claims on cosmetic products are regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Products with ingredients that are either 100% organically produced or at least 95% organically produced, with the remaining 5% on the approved substances list, display the USDA Organic seal (U.S. Department of Agriculture, n.d.). Products that claim to be organic but don’t carry an official seal may not meet the standards. Many synthetics have been linked to carcinogens, endocrine disruption, developmental disorders, and other health issues. The Toxic 20 should be avoided, but not all synthetics are bad. There are many that have not been linked to any health problems that play an important role in cosmetics. Ultimately it is up the professional to decide which products are the safest to use. Understanding your client’s health history, allergies, and medications they may be on is important information when determining which products would provide the best results, and which contain chemicals that may be irritants. Read the labels to really know what chemicals are in each product, and don’t trust marketing claims. Understanding the basics of cosmetic chemistry and having the ability to recognize which ingredients are toxic and which ingredients are safe will give you an advantage in the salon, as you will be able to provide your clientele with the safest, and best, products for each of their individual needs. de Gruchy, H. (2022, October 18). What is an emulsifier in skin care? Sönd. https://www.sondskin.co.uk/blogs/ discover/what-is-an-emulsifier-in-skin-care Deckner, G. (2023, March 9). An overview of Emollient Technology . Prospector Knowledge Center. https:// www.ulprospector.com/knowledge/5840/pcc-emollient-technology-overview/ Essential Wholesale and Labs. (2022, February). Gums, thickeners, and natural polymers in Cosmetics . Essential Wholesale Resource Library. https://blog.essentialwholesale.com/cosmetic-thickeners-and-natural- polymers/ Federal Trade Commission. (2021, September 18). Four companies agree to stop falsely promoting their personal-care products as “all natural” or “100% natural”; fifth is charged in commission complaint . Federal
Labels can be misleading. Just because a brand is labeled as “cruelty-free”, or “vegan” doesn’t automatically mean the ingredients are all from organic sources. Cruelty-free means that the manufacturer does not test on animals, but both cruelty- free and vegan products are allowed to add synthetic dyes, fragrances, and nano-sized oxides (Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, n.d.). These labels do not guarantee that the product’s ingredients are natural or organic. The brands that are cruelty-free (CF) and formulated with 100% clean, natural, organic ingredients will have a certification on the label – usually USDA Organic or Ecocert. As the FDA has never legally defined the term “natural,” there are no regulations on its use in cosmetics (Mayo Clinic, 2022). In a study done by the Organic Consumers Association, carcinogenic petrochemical ingredients were found in more than 40% of products that claimed to be “natural” (Sims, 2019). In 2016 the Federal Trade Commission filed complaints against four companies that marketed their products as “all natural” or “100% natural” with products containing synthetic ingredients (Federal Trade Commission, 2016). There are also no federal standards governing the use of the term “hypoallergenic,” which companies often use to suggest that a product is safe. Are natural cosmetics automatically better than synthetic products? Sometimes. There are also naturally occurring ingredients that are not safe, and some are used in the skin care, hair care, and makeup products that we use. Clays can be References: Ataman Chemicals. (n.d.). Carnauba Wax. https://atamankimya.com/sayfalaralfabe.asp?LanguageID=2&cid=3 &id=2868&id2=3610 Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition. (n.d.-a). U.S. Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda. gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/parabens-cosmetics Chemicalwatch.com. (n.d.). EU committee publishes opinion on salicylic acid in cosmetics. https:// chemicalwatch.com/73029/eu-committee-publishes-opinion-on-salicylic-acid-in-cosmetics Australian Academy of Science. (2019, September 19). The Chemistry of Cosmetics. https://www.science.org. au/curious/people-medicine/chemistry-cosmetics
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