● Wisping. ● Slithering. ● Tapering. ● Blending. We have found that while using a razor on human-hair pieces will give a soft, feathery effect, it can cause stretching on synthetic fibers and is not suitable for designing on this type of hair. By all means, try and see the effects, before going into the cut. There are many razors on the market. Therefore, stylists and wig specialists should make sure to be familiar with the hair type of wigs, to be cut with razors. Some of the hair may be coarse; some may be fine. These factors impact which effects the razor gives the wig. It is also important clients understand what razors can and cannot do to wigs. We like our blades super-sharp and may replace these blades two or three times, during a cutting procedure. It is entirely up to you, and what you are accustomed to using. A good hair cut is the foundation of a good hairstyle, whether the hair is cut with a razor, hair cutting shears, or clippers, or it is thinned with thinning shears, or blenders, or in any combination of these. A record card should be kept on each client of the procedure performed on the wig and the procedure results. The record card should also include which implements were used on the wig or piece to achieve the results, and any special procedures or precautions or client desires. The record card should be kept in an active file because the client may call at any time inquiring about the hair-cutting or hairstyling procedures or products. A client may come in with another wig and ask the stylist or wig specialist for the cut completed on the previous wig. If this happens, the stylist or wig specialist can pull the client’s record card and follow the notes of instruction. Styling the wig or hairpiece The principals of modern hairstyling are basic guides in selecting which wig styles are most appropriate and which will achieve the best results. The wig style should emphasize the client’s best features and minimize the client’s poor features. In modern hairstyling, the best results are achieved when facial and head shapes are analyzed. Each type of face requires a distinctive hair design that is proportioned, balanced, and designed to frame the face. The hairstylist or wig specialist must have basic knowledge of hairstyling, wig styling, and a sense of balance and harmony, to keep up with the demands of hairstyles and wig styles. The skilled and successful stylist gives each style personal flair so that the style is personal, attractive, and suits the client. The essentials of artistic and appropriate wig styling are: ● The shape of the head---Front view, side view (profile), back view, and type of hair on the wig. ● Personal characteristics---Best features (emphasize and use as the foundation of styling), imperfect features (minimize), defects and blemishes (conceal). ● Body structure and posture. In the case of the hairpiece, wiglet, demi-wig, and toupee: visualize the additional hair as an addition to the bulk and length of the client’s own design, and ask yourself this important question: “How would I design this additional hair, if the client grew this new amount of bulk and length?” It may be necessary to fit and secure the piece into the client’s head and design the addition while the client is wearing it. Then, it can be removed to the wig block for completion of the cut and styling. Many of our clients wore the piece for an increase of volume in the crown area. It is simply a matter of visualizing what you would do with the additional hair, as if the client grew it.
For the wet set on the human-hair piece, use your roller and pincurl techniques, just as with setting the client’s own hair with two exceptions: 1. In the roller application, use the T-pins through the holes in the rollers, to secure the rollers to the cap, and into the canvas block. 2. Because wig hair is usually stronger than the client’s hair, use end papers to produce the pincurls and secure with the T-pin. Both of these considerations will give the firm set that you will want for the piece. Place the block in or on the dryer attachment and set the dryer at medium heat (NEVER HOT). Allow the piece to cool, undisturbed, before beginning the comb-out. Here, it is important to recommend the careful use of products on the piece. Do not use heavy alcohol setting agents on the piece, as these are too drying. Use light, conditioning spray for control while setting. Reconditioning and adding moisture is imperative! The piece is not getting any other form of conditioner without this step. We will discuss this more under the cleaning and care section, later in this course. But, for now, know that a light misting of hair spray will be enough to maintain the style. A light spray gloss is also beneficial to the overall appearance of the human-hair wig. Wig coloring Generally speaking, the color/colors of synthetic hair cannot be changed. Color stains and rinses have little or no effect on these fibers. However, human-hair pieces can be successfully changed to suit the client. Sometimes we will refresh the existing color of the wig or hairpiece, since cleaning and styling can cause the hair to fade in color. Animal filler hair will also respond to hair color and bleaching. Hair color is categorized three ways: 1. Permanent. 2. Semi-permanent. 3. Temporary. Permanent color is an ammonia substance and is deposited in the cortex layer of the hair. Non-ammonia, “deep-color” can go as deep as permanent color, but will not cause the lifting action of permanent color. It will also coat the hair, as does temporary color or rinses. As previously mentioned, when hair is “hackled” or blended, it is done over very sharp pins. This process will somewhat destroy much of the cuticle layer in the hair. For this reason, we have found greater success with the non- ammonia, semi-permanent colors than with the permanent type. Rinses can also be helpful to add a tone or diminish brassiness. While permanent color is generally mixed with a developer, we find that using a developer makes little difference in the action of the color on wig hair. If we are using permanent color, we will mix it with very hot water only. This will produce a stain on the piece. This is actually dried into the hair. Bleaches (lighteners) will have their affect on the human-hair piece, but not on the cap. Make sure that your wig block is covered well with plastic, and block the wig according to your measurements. This assures that the cap will not be affected by the process. Sadly, you can knock-out your customizing work without this step. Apply the color to dampened wig hair only, and just let it be. You can gently comb the product through, with a wide-toothed comb. The next day, rinse the excess from the hair and cap well, condition the hair, and proceed with the styling.
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Book Code: BBGA0524
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