Chapter 2: Shaping, Styling and Maintaining Wigs and Hairpieces 2 CE Hours
By: JoAnn Stills Learning objectives Identify the appropriate cutting instruments to use on human hair wigs and synthetic pieces. Apply the procedure of cutting the “basic layered cut” with shears or clippers. Explain the different effects achieved when using a razor on human hair wigs and hair pieces.
Describe the basic guidelines in selecting which wig styles are most appropriate and which will achieve the best results for that particular client. Explain the basic fundamental principles in cleaning and repairing a wig or hairpiece. Define at least five (5) common types of hair pieces. Illustrate the appropriate method to put on a man’s toupee or hairpiece.
SHAPING AND STYLING THE WIG
side. Hold the hair straight up in a 90° angle and start cutting in the front of the head, laying down hair that is cut, and picking up the uncut hair. Proceed to the back of the head. Repeat this step throughout the top of the head. When the sides are reached, pull the sides straight out toward you and cut. (There will be little hair to cut from the sides, because most was taken off during the perimeter cut.) 5. Once the unpinned side is cut, pin this side and repeat step 4 on the other side. At the conclusion of this step, the whole wig should be cut from front to back. To check for accuracy and even ends, make small partings from side to side, holding the hair up in a 90* angle, and cut as needed. 6. Go in systematically to remove bulk, with either the blenders or thinning shears. You want the hair to move freely with enough texture. In a wefted wig or hairpiece, watch for the “beard” (the short hair that is the backup strand after the strip is stitched). Note: Be very careful not to snag the weft or the cap, as this will cause a tear. Once the wig has been cut and checked, it is ready for styling. The procedure for the basic layered cut can be done with clippers, shears, or both. If both implements are used, make sure the client understands that each implement achieves a different effect. The clippers will give a more blunt effect; whereas, the shears can leave more taper, especially if the hair is point-cut. Some feel that this appears more natural. During the consultation, the stylist or wig specialist should always explain to the client, the effects of the implements to ensure client satisfaction. Cutting wigs and hairpieces with razors We like the effect of razor cutting on human-hair wigs and hairpieces because of the tapered effects. It is also easier, and time efficient to decrease bulk and remove length, at the same time. For best results when cutting with a razor, make sure the wig hair is wet or damp. Like thinning, there is no particular procedure for cutting with a razor, but when unsure, follow the procedure for a basic layered cut (see preceding section). With a razor, cut the hair closer to the ends, than to the scalp. A razor can give a lot of different effects to the wig, in different areas. Therefore, it is imperative that the stylist consults with the client before attempting to cut the wig with a razor. A few cuts and effects to achieve with the razor are:
Most wigs and hairpieces will have much more hair density, than an average head of hair. We may need to remove unnecessary bulk, along with an excess of length. On human-hair wigs and hairpieces, we find the razor to be the tool of choice because it tapers the hair to act more like the hair of the head. Human-hair pieces can be cut either wet or dry; but synthetic pieces should be only designed dry, incorporating the point-cutting technique with the serrated shears, thinning shears and/or blending shears. On synthetic pieces, the serrated shears and the “blenders” do a good job of shortening and bulk removal. Go back to your first set of measurements and block the piece for control and stability. Use as many T-pins as necessary, to be able to keep the cap from lifting, during the cutting process. *In any situation, “hair shaping” or “haircutting” is irreversible. So proceed carefully! Follow the second set of measurements to determine outside guide lengths; any modifications can be done at the time of the final fitting. This is where only the professional stylist can give the necessary services, even if the client has purchased the piece from someone else. There are several good cuts for wigs. The basic layered cut is the most practiced, for the client who desires no specific design, because of its versatility. If the wig is purchased with no definite pattern, the basic layered cut can give the client more styling choices. Cutting the basic layered cut The procedure for a basic layered cut with shears or clippers is as follows: 1. Section the hair into four or five sections. If the client wants a specific bang area, make that a section of its own. 2. In the nape area, find the guideline by taking smaller sections of hair from the large sections. Use the comb to measure the hair, from the band to the desired length (refer to your cutting measurements, as the hair will be longer than the band itself). The guideline in the nape area is the guideline around the perimeter of the head. 3. Cut around the perimeter of the head, using the guideline in the nape area. Now, you can either bring down each layer, or arc upward, across the back, to tailor the back. You can incorporate the use of the thinning shears or blending shears to tailor the back to fit, smoothly. 4. Part the hair down the middle of the head and divide the hair into two large panels. Pin one whole side, so that it does not interfere with cutting on the opposite
● Long graduation cut. ● Short graduation cut. ● Layered cut. ● Twist cut.
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Book Code: BBGA0524
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