● Esters are the result from the reaction of polyols or alcohols with acids (Pelonara, 2020). They are naturally derived, and most of the esters used in cosmetic products are non- sensitizing and quite beneficial for dry skin. They replace the natural fatty esters found within the skin, helping to smooth and protect. Esters are natural, sustainable, and provide a whole host of benefits. ● Ethers are organic compounds containing oxygen atoms connected to two aryl or alkyl groups. They are similar in structure to water (Johnson et al., 2013). The CIR Expert Panel have deemed ethers safe for use in cosmetics. ● Fatty acids are monocarboxylic acids with a chain link that is bigger than seven carbons. Fatty acids are the main components of many natural oils and are used to create thousands of types of cosmetic ingredients. They are naturally occurring and sustainable. Common sources of fatty acids include natural oils like coconut, palm kernel, soybean, and sunflower. ● Fatty alcohols are organic compounds that attach a hydroxyl group to a carbon that can be branched, saturated, or unsaturated (Deckner, 2022). They can be found in many plants and animals, mainly as esters. These ingredients Coloring agents Coloring agents are added to products to either impart color to the product or to the skin (Weisz, 2007). There is a wide range of substances that can be used to add color to cosmetics. Coloring agents come in two main groups: Colorants and pigments . Colorants are soluble (in water and oil) synthetic organic coloring agents. They are used to color such products as skin care and makeup. Pigments are insoluble coloring agents and remain in the form of crystals or particles. Coloring agents can be comprised of: ● Mineral ingredients such as mica flakes, iron oxide, manganese, chromium oxide, and talc, which are ground and milled into tiny particles to create makeup (WebMD, n.d.). A key difference between mineral makeup and conventional makeup is what’s not in the product: Mineral makeups generally do not contain preservatives, emollient oils, wax, or fragrance, making them ideal for clients with sensitive skin. Be aware – just because a product is labeled “natural” does not meant it contains 100% natural ingredients. If the label states “mineral enriched” the product may contain chemicals such as paraben preservatives or dimethicone. Fragrance Both natural and synthetic chemicals can be used to create appealing fragrances (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Even unscented products may contain masking fragrances to cover the smell of other chemicals in the compound. “Fragrance” is often used by manufacturers as a generic term. A single listing of “fragrance” on the product’s ingredient list can contain dozens or even hundreds of chemical compounds used to create that fragrance. Manufacturers do not have to list these individual ingredients as they are protected as “trade secrets.” PH stabilizers Healthy skin is covered in an acid mantle that has a pH balance of 4.7-5.9. Healthy hair is also acidic (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). When we deviate too much from the healthy pH range, we see problems such as dry, flaky skin, or damaged, dehydrated hair. Stabilizers maintain the function and activity of other ingredients in the compound to check excessive acidity or alkalinity of the product. Adding a stabilizer to the cosmetic formulation will aid emulsion stability and improve the shelf life of the emulsions. Since many cosmetics are mixtures of oil and water, it is necessary to add ingredients that are specifically meant to stabilize the formula. Signs of instability in a product
are non-irritating and are beneficial for dry skin. They are frequently used in oil-in-water skin-care emulsions and hair- conditioning products. The CIR Expert Panel has concluded that fatty alcohols are safe for use in cosmetic products. ● Hydrocarbons are carbon structures that only carry carbon and hydrogen groups (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). They are widely used in cosmetics for their excellent emollient properties and are noted for their purity, non- reactivity, and inertness. They are organic compounds consisting entirely of hydrogen and carbon. They are mainly used in lipsticks, lip gloss, and lip balm, but can also be found in skin- and hair-care products. They can appear on the ingredients list as mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, paraffinum liquidum, ceresin, or ozokerite. Hydrocarbons have been deemed safe for use in cosmetics; however, petrolatum, which is a byproduct of petroleum refining, is not always fully refined in the U.S., meaning it can be contaminated with toxic chemicals called polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons , which have been linked to cancer. Most hydrocarbons found on Earth naturally occur in petrolatum, where the decomposed organic matter provides an abundance of carbon and hydrogen. The size of the particles used to create pearly and shimmering looks affects the degree of glimmer in the product. The smaller the particle size, the less luster the powder has and the more coverage it gives. Larger particles – up to 500 – microns are more transparent and give an extra glittery luster. Inorganic metal oxide pigments are usually duller than the organic pigments but are more resistant to heat and light to provide longer lasting color. ● Natural colors can come from plants (such as beet powder) or animals, like the cochineal insect, which is listed in ingredients as carmine, cochineal extract, or natural red 4. ● Pigments can be divided into two main categories: Organic, which are carbon-based molecules, and inorganic , which are generally metal oxides (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Inorganic should not be confused with synthetic, as most of the inorganic metal oxide pigments do occur naturally. The two most common organic pigments are lakes and toners . Lake pigments are created by combining a dye color with an insoluble substance (such as alumina hydrate) which causes the dye to become insoluble in water – making it perfect for waterproof makeup. A toner pigment is an organic pigment that has not been combined with any other substance. There are over 3,000 chemicals used to formulate the huge range of available fragrances worldwide. Consumers who are concerned about the individual ingredients that aren’t listed should look for either fragrance-free products or manufacturers that provide a more comprehensive list. Fragrances can be added to anything – creams, lotions, etc. – and the entire group of chemicals can be lumped together as simply “fragrance” on the ingredients list. include changes in color, scent, or separation of ingredients. Some of the commonly used stabilizers include: ● Candililla wax : A plant-based wax and a vegan ingredient. ● Cetyl alcohol : A fatty alcohol used as an emulsion stabilizer. ● Glucose oxidase : A stable enzyme commonly used to stabilize cosmetic formulations. ● Sclerotium gum : An efficient thickener, emulsifier, and stabilizer. ● Arrowroot powder : An organic ingredient, this powder comes from the white root of the arrowroot plant.
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Book Code: ENC0824
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