The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the available scientific data and concluded that EDTA and its related ingredients are safe for use in cosmetic products. It received a “2” rating with a low overall health hazard. However, this chemical has been known to cause eczema in individuals with sensitive skin and is also a potent eye Thickeners Thickening agents work to give products an appealing consistency. There are four different chemical families of Lipid thickeners are usually solid at room temperature; they can be liquified and added to cosmetic emulsions. These ingredients impart their natural thickness to the formula (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). One example of a lipid thickener is cetyl alcohol which has also been approved for use in food products. Cetyl alcohol is derived from coconuts and can also be found naturally in other plants as well as animals. It can also be produced in a laboratory. Cetyl alcohol is soothing for the skin and has been designated as one of the least irritating and most non-toxic skin care ingredients available. In lotions and creams, it works as an emulsifier and thickening agent, and when added to shampoos and conditioners, it enhances viscosity and moisturization. This ingredient can be found in shampoos, conditioners, hair dyes, skin creams and lotions, hair removal products, hair mousse, sunscreen, and mascara. Stearic acid is another commonly used lipid thickener. Stearic acid, also known as octadecanoic acid, is a saturated 18-length carbon length fatty acid that is derived from animal or plant fats and oils. This ingredient is used in over 3,200 skin, hair, and cosmetics products in the U.S. alone. The word stear is Greek for “tallow,” and this valuable saturated fatty acid is the main ingredient in both cocoa and shea butter. It is an effective thickener, stabilizer, and softener that is cooling to the skin (New Directions, n.d.). Stearic acid works as an emollient to protect the epidermis from water loss and improve the skin’s protective barrier. Both the FDA and the CIR Expert Panel have found stearic acid to be safe for use in cosmetics. Carnauba wax Carnauba wax is another commonly used lipid thickener. This ingredient is hypoallergenic and very emollient – perfect for use as a thickener in skin-care products. Carnauba wax is typically used in face creams, sunscreens, and various makeup products. It is a natural vegetable wax derived from the leaves of the carnauba tree. Carnauba wax can also be listed under the following names: Brazil wax; ceara wax; and palm wax. This ingredient acts as a natural binding agent that stretches a product’s holding power, making it ideal for use in products such as hair-styling waxes, as well as ointments that must remain on the skin for long periods of time (Ataman Chemicals, n.d.). When added to makeup, this ingredient provides easy spreadability, preventing the products from becoming stiff and allowing them to glide smoothly across the skin. Naturally derived thickeners thickening agents: Lipid thickeners These are thickeners that come from nature. They are polymers that absorb water and swell up, thereby adding viscosity to products (Essential Wholesale and Labs, 2022). If the product comes out too thick, water or alcohol (solvents) can be added to dilute the products. Some commonly used naturally derived thickeners include gelatin; locust bean gum; guar gum; hydroxyethyl; cellolose; and xanthan gum. These thickeners Moisturizers Moisturizers (also commonly known as emollients ) soften the skin by preventing water loss. The term emollient comes from the Latin “mollis” or “molle” which translates to “soft” or “supple” (Deckner, 2023). These moisturizing ingredients are used in a wide range of lipsticks, lotions, and cosmetics. Some commonly used emollients are natural oils such as: Coconut oil; argan oil; almond oil; shea butter; cocoa butter; jojoba; squalene;
irritant. It is slow to degrade, making it a poor choice for anyone concerned about the environment. It is a synthetic ingredient and can be listed under any of the following names: Edetate sodium; tetrasodium edetate; tetrasodium salt; and TEA-EDTA.
can be used in any product containing high amounts of water. Unfortunately, these ingredients tend to be inconsistent and can cause clear products to become cloudy or sticky. Mineral thickeners Mineral thickeners are also naturally derived. They absorb water and oil to increase viscosity but give a different emulsion that the gums (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Some examples of mineral thickeners commonly used in cosmetic compounds include magnesium aluminum silicate, silica, and bentonite. Magnesium aluminum silicate can be used as both a thickener and an absorbent. Due to its natural anti-caking abilities, it is ideal in preventing powders from clumping. The CIR deems this ingredient safe for use in cosmetics, as the molecules it’s comprised of are too large to be absorbed by the skin. Silica is a mineral that is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and skin care formulations. Silica can be found naturally in sandstone, clay, and granite, but can also be produced synthetically. All silicas are silicon dioxide, and there are various forms of silica, which unfortunately creates confusion as one of the forms – crystalline silica – is widely known as an irritant. This is usually not the form of silica that is used when creating cosmetic compounds. As labeling laws can be vague, many times a product will simply list “silica” as an ingredient, leaving the consumer to wonder if the product contains this abrasive ingredient, or if it simply contains one of the safer silicas. If your client has sensitive skin, it might be best to avoid products containing silica. Bentonite is a natural clay that’s derived from volcanic ash. It is commonly used in facial masks, cleansers, and makeup. The International Journal of Toxicology released a report deeming bentonite as safe for use in cosmetics (Johnson et al., 2013). However, it does present some inhalation dangers. Mixing it with liquids generally mitigates the risk of inhalation, but when it is in powder form, take care when adding to liquids. Synthetic thickeners Synthetic thickeners are often used in creams and lotions. The most common is carbomer , an acrylic acid polymer that is water- soluble and can be used to form clear gels (Chemistry Corner, 2022). Carbomers are a series of synthetic polymers primarily made from acrylic acid. They can be found in a wide range of products including styling gel, moisturizer, eye cream, sunscreen, shampoos, cleansers, and scrubs. Carbomers have been used in creating cosmetic formulas for over 50 years. The carbomer polymers can have varying pH levels that must be neutralized before they are used as thickening agents. Varying the amount of carbomer used in a product allows the manufacturer to create a wide range of products – everything from stiff styling gels that keep the hair exactly where you want it, to a thick lotion that still retains the ability to glide on smoothly. The CIR Expert Panel ran dermal clinical studies and concluded that carbomer is a safe ingredient when added to cosmetic formulations.
sunflower; palm oil ; and olive oil . There are also several esters that are categorized as emollients, including myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate , and lauryl laurate . Other commonly used emollients include petroleum jelly, glycerin, butyl stearat e, and diglycol laurate . The following emollients are routinely used in cosmetic compounds:
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