it is also an eye irritant. Prolonged or repeated exposure can cause allergic contact dermatitis, so avoid using any products containing benzyl alcohol on your clients with sensitive skin or skin conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis. The MSDS also states that this preservative may be toxic to the liver and central nervous system. Benzyl alcohol can be found in nature – many plants, fruits, and teas contain it as a natural component. Unfortunately, you won’t find the natural version in most cosmetics. Instead, manufactures whip up the cheaper synthetic version in their laboratories by mixing benzyl chloride with sodium hydroxide . Exposure to this ingredient can be extremely dangerous to young children; in 1982 benzyl alcohol was linked to the deaths of 16 premature infants in two separate hospitals (CDC, 1982). Most baby products, including shampoos, soaps, lotions, and wipes stopped using benzyl alcohol in their products, but it’s always best to check the labels (McDonough, 2022). Also be aware of products that simply list “fragrance” as an ingredient, as benzyl alcohol is considered a fragrance, and fragrances are protected as proprietary formulas, so they do not have to list the individual ingredients. Salicylic acid The FDA has approved salicylic acid for use as a preservative in cosmetics, and the European Union’s (EU) Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) originally approved its use in cosmetics only for preservative purposes with maximum levels of up to 0.5% (Chemicalwatch, n.d.). Products for children under 3 years of age and sprayable products where consumers could be accidentally exposed are prohibited to include salicylic acid in their compounds. Salicylic acid is also known as 2-hydroxybenzoic acid and can be found in willow tree bark (Cosmetics & Toiletries, 2021). This preservative can also be found in a multitude of products, including face and eye makeup, fragrance, hair care, hair color, bath and nail products, sunscreen, and skin care. Salicylic acid has been banned in Europe due to its link to causing Reye’s syndrome, but the FDA has approved its use in the United States. Formaldehyde Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring substance made of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen (Fevola, 2013). Humans produce about 1.5 ounces of formaldehyde per day as a normal part of our metabolism. Inhaled formaldehyde is rapidly metabolized, converted to carbon dioxide, and exhaled – it does not build up in the body. Low levels of formaldehyde also occur naturally in fruits and vegetables. Formaldehyde-releasers are used in tiny amounts as preservatives in cosmetics – slowly releasing small, safe amounts of formaldehyde over time to prevent mold and bacteria from forming in (and spoiling) the products. Formaldehyde is a naturally occurring chemical that nearly every living animal and plant produces. Worldwide, low levels of formaldehyde are deemed safe as a preservative in cosmetics. High levels of this chemical can be dangerous, causing problems such as skin irritation, sensory irritation, asthma, and other breathing difficulties; chronic high exposure has been known to cause cancer. Formaldehyde also goes by the following names: Formalin; morbicid acid; methylene oxide; methylaldehyde; and methylene glycol. This chemical can be found in a wide range of cosmetic products, including shampoos, conditioners, hair-straightening products, cream cleansers, moisturizers, and eyelash glue. Tetrasodium EDTA (ethylenediaminetetra-acetic acid): Tetrasodium (EDTA) and its related salts are widely used as preservatives in soaps, shampoos, conditioners, hair dyes, hair lighteners, and many other cosmetic products (Gianni, 2022). EDTA is a water-soluble ingredient that is used as a chelator to bind certain mineral ions to deactivate them. EDTA and its related ingredients work by binding these metal ions to prevent deterioration, maintain product clarity, protect fragrance, and prevent rancidity. By binding with the metal ions, EDTA prevents the metals from being deposited into the hair, skin, or scalp.
natural or synthetic preservatives in amounts ranging anywhere from 0.001% to up to 5%. Following is some of the more commonly used preservatives: Parabens Parabens are a group of chemicals that have been widely used in cosmetics since the 1920s (Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, n.d.). They are highly effective in preventing the growth of fungi, bacteria, and yeast in cosmetic compounds. Cosmetics typically contain mixtures of differing types of parabens, the most common being methy-, ethyl-, propyl, isopropyl, butyl- , and isobutylparaben . Parabens are commonly found in such products as moisturizers, facial cleansers, sunscreen, shampoos, conditioners, and makeup. They are still labeled as “safe,” but due to findings from newer scientific studies, the FDA has added them to the list of ingredients to be further investigated for safety. Current research suggests that parabens can disrupt hormones in the body and cause harm to both male and female reproductive organs and fertility, affect birth outcomes, and increase the risk of cancer (Stoiber, 2019). Researchers conducting animal studies found that developmental exposure to butylparaben harmed male reproduction by lowering testosterone levels and decreasing sperm count. Even very low doses of up to 10 mg/kg of body weight per day caused a decrease in sperm count. Studies conducted at Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health linked butylparaben and total urinary paraben levels to decreased fertility in women, increased odds of premature birth, and decreased birth weight on the fetuses that were exposed through the mother’s cord blood. Research has shown that people using products containing topical applications of paraben have up to 20 times the levels of propylparaben in their urine than normal. Paraben can also interfere with the production of hormones. Propylparaben can alter the expression of genes and accelerate the growth of breast cancer cells. A recent University of California-Berkeley study found that even low doses of butylparaben (that were previously considered safe) worked in conjunction with other cell receptors to switch on cancer genes and increase the growth of breast cancer cells. The UN Environment Programme has identified the entire group of parabens as potential endocrine disrupters. The Danish Centre on Endocrine Disruptors have identified butyl- and isobutylparaben as endocrine disruptors. Parabens can also cause skin irritation. Parabens also cause ecological damage. Low levels of butylparaben can kill coral, and paraben has been found in surface waters, as well as fish and sediments. Many major retailers in the U.S. have either banned products containing parabens or are in the process of having these products removed from their shelves. Given all the bad news popping up in the latest findings, paraben might be a great ingredient to skip until the FDA completes its testing. Benzyl alcohol Benzyl alcohol is an aromatic alcohol used in a wide variety of cosmetics as a fragrance component, solvent, viscosity- decreasing agent, and preservative (Nair, 2001). The World Health Organization (WHO) established acceptable daily intakes at 5 mg/kg, and both the FDA and the CIR have deemed benzyl alcohol to be “safe” at levels up to 5% in cosmetics and up to 10% in hair dyes. Neither the FDA nor the CIR factored in the duration and frequency of use when conducting their studies. In Europe, this ingredient is only allowed as a preservative in cosmetics at a maximum concentration of up to 1%. Europe considers amounts of over 1% to be dangerous, while the U.S. allows from 5 to 10%. Many experts maintain that the current safety tests are not adequate to support benzyl alcohol’s safety in formulations where inhalation is a route of exposure. Because this product has a pleasing floral-like scent, odds are good that your clients will smell the product, thereby inhaling the ingredients. The Material Data Safety Sheet (MSDS) states that benzyl alcohol is a skin irritant, potentially causing pain and redness, and that
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Book Code: ENC0824
EliteLearning.com/ Cosmetology
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