Chapter 1: An Introduction to Chemistry in Cosmetics 1 CE Hour
By: Kimily Schwartz Learning objectives After completing this course, the learner will be able to: Employ the information in this course to design the optimal hair or skincare regime. Identify the eight key ingredients that are used to produce most cosmetics; and be able to describe the purpose of each to create the ideal regime for each individual client. Course overview This introductory course covers the basics of chemistry in cosmetics. In the U.S.A., there are over 12,500 unique chemical ingredients that are approved for use in manufacturing cosmetics, and thousands of cosmetics on the market with differing combinations of ingredients (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Researchers estimate that an average woman
Identify the twenty toxic chemicals and be able to explain why some are already banned, and others are on the FDA list as chemicals that should be banned. Examine the differences between the natural, organic, vegan, synthetic, and cruelty-free cosmetics; and compare the efficaciousness of each. will place approximately 515 chemicals per day on their skin (Thomson Reuters, 2009). As a beauty expert, it is vital to understand the potential effects and efficaciousness of each chemical compound to design the optimal skincare and hair care routine for each individual client.
PART 1: THE IMPORTANCE OF UNDERSTANDING CHEMISTRY IN COSMETICS
Understanding the principles of cosmetic chemistry is necessary to properly blend ingredients into a safe and effective product. Although the cosmetologist or esthetician typically uses products that have already been produced, it is vital to know the client’s needs, allergies, and even medications since they can cause an adverse reaction when certain chemicals are applied. Some products are synthetic, others are “natural,” vegan, or organic. Although a product may be labeled “natural,” the professional beautician must still be aware of the ingredients and the possible reactions that could impact the client. The cosmetics industry has sometimes led in scientific innovation; for example, it was one of the first to adapt the new features of nanotechnology by utilizing nanoparticles to improve the quality of products (Raj et al., 2012). Nanoparticles are particles of intermediate size somewhere between atoms and macroscopic materials. They have unique properties and are used in a wide range of products, including sunscreen, fragrance, and skincare. Cosmetic chemists earn both a science degree and an advanced degree in cosmetic chemistry before entering the field. They are highly trained and skilled at combining varying chemicals to achieve the results the public wants. Customers look to their beauty professional to provide the best advice as to what they should be using – if the expert does not understand the basics of cosmetic chemistry and how the varying combinations of chemicals can impact each individual client’s own distinct body chemistry, they will not be able to provide the best advice. Our skin is chemistry, and so are the products we use daily. Understanding the basics of cosmetic chemistry will help the professional avoid accidentally applying a product that could produce a severe reaction when combined with the client’s own unique chemistry and will aid the beautician in selecting the right products to create the desired results. So, let’s dive into the exciting world of chemistry in cosmetics. In the next chapter, we will cover the eight key ingredients that are blended into most of products currently available to the general public, as well as used in professional products.
Cosmetics have existed for over 10,000 years. In ancient Egypt, women used kohl, which contained galena, on their eyelids, and Cleopatra was known to bathe in milk to whiten and soften her skin (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). By the year 3,000 BC people in China began staining their fingernails to reflect their social class (Hopp, 2022). Greek women used a poisonous lead carbonate (PbCO3) to achieve a pale complexion. In Africa, clays were ground into a paste for cosmetic use. Indigenous Australians still use a wide range of crushed rocks and minerals to create body paint for ceremonies and initiations (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Today, cosmetics is a gigantic industry. Billions of dollars are spent annually on all types of cosmetics – skin care, hair care, fragrance and makeup are big business. Cosmetics is defined as a substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body (including the mouth and teeth; The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). So why, as a beauty expert, do you need an understanding of the basics of chemistry in cosmetics? Here are some reasons why it is crucial to have a basic understanding of the chemical compounds that make up the products you work with. In the United States, more than 12,500 unique chemical ingredients are approved for use in manufacturing cosmetics, and thousands of cosmetics on the market feature different ingredient combinations (The Chemistry of Cosmetics, 2019). Most products contain anywhere from 15 to 50 different ingredients. Not all these chemicals in cosmetics are entirely safe – the FDA continuously regulates for safety, and some chemicals found in products currently on the shelves are listed on the FDA website as having the potential to be banned in the near future. Many people are switching to brands that advertise as vegan, organic, or all-natural, believing that these products are safer than synthetic brands. Combined with the fact that some clients are bound to be allergic to some chemicals that are blended into certain products, a professional skin- or hair-care expert must be aware of all factors before applying any substance to their client’s skin or hair.
PART 2: KEY INGREDIENTS
Most skin care products can be created by combining the following eight key ingredients with other specific chemicals and additives blended into the compound:
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Book Code: ENC0824
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