environmental exposure, or possibly even medication that the client is taking. ● Dehydrated skin is “dry from the inside,” meaning there is not enough moisture inside the skin or produced by the skin. This skin has tiny lines all over. ● Oily skin is shinier than dry skin because of the continual oil that is deposited from the sebaceous glands into the hair follicles. When moving a hand over oily skin that has no breakouts, the hand more readily slides across the surface than on dry skin. It can be oilier at certain times of the day (late morning, mid-afternoon), and even on just certain parts of the face. Oily skin also has larger pores than other skin. ● Acne skin is usually oilier, but not always. Acne can be caused by hormonal imbalances, causing breakouts even on dry skin. Acne skin will usually have enlarged pores that may or may not be clogged (blackheads), papules, pustules, and other breakouts. ● Aged skin has fine lines and wrinkles, discolorations, and keratosis, and it may be thinner in the elderly. These conditions increase with age, although they can be present at any time of life if the skin is environmentally challenged. Remember : Diseases and disorders must be addressed by medical professionals. the basics, and possibly the first specialty equipment and treatment should be a nonirritating but productive one. That would be LED. The decision, of course, is always qualified by the situation. If the salon follows professional criteria, the room will be safe and produce quality skincare for the client.
Let’s simplify it by saying that it’s all about the pores. Nothing else is important to know in determining skin type. ● The person who has tiny pores all over is a dry skin type. ● The person with large pores all over is an oily skin type. ● The person with larger pores in the center panel (nose, frontal chin, mid-forehead) and small pores on the rest of the face has a combination skin type. ● The person who has normal pores all over the face has a normal skin type. The skin’s condition is the more complex determination for some skincare professionals. A skin type cannot be changed, but a skin condition can be treated and improved. If they know the skin type and how to determine possible skin conditions, the procedure is greatly simplified. The basic skin conditions are dry, dehydrated, oily, acne, and aged. ● Dry skin is dry from the outside, meaning the moisture (sebum) has been removed by a situation from the outside. This skin will have a rougher texture than normal and will be dull (lacking life) in appearance. This has nothing to do with skin type. This is a skin condition. The skincare professional must determine the skin type to know whether the skin is dry from use of harsh products, LED, microdermabrasion, skin peels and microcurrent Making decisions on which treatment to offer is a responsibility that should be made with several qualifiers: The clientele, the skill of the skincare professional, and the cost. Most experts recommend that a start-up room with a newly educated skincare professional should start out with
THE ONE-FACIAL-FITS-ALL TREATMENT
7. Perform massage. (Clients with open acne cannot be massaged except with pressure-point massage, or the infection may spread.) 8. Apply the appropriate mask. Leave on for 10 minutes, or the designated time. 9. Apply postmask products, allow the client to rest for five minutes, then apply mineral makeup. 10. Remind the client when the next treatment should be or make the next appointment and provide home care instructions. It is advantageous to have a facial that can be an old standby and is expandable to the treatment needs of the client. Below are variations on this facial (all within the original protocol) that can be adjusted to meet new client needs. The variations in the facial are made according to the client’s skin condition.
There is no such thing as “one-facial-fits-all,” especially if improvement is the goal. However, this is a facial that can be the base treatment for all skin types and can be customized according to the needs of the client. The protocol for this versatile facial is as follows: 1. Perform the preliminary evaluation and then cleanse the face of makeup with a milky cleanser. 2. Reevaluate the skin and make service, home care, and program recommendations. 3. Cleanse the skin with, preferably, a skin type–appropriate cleanser. This cleanser should be gentle but cleanse the skin well. 4. Deep cleanse the skin. 5. If needed, perform only easy extractions now (for not more than five minutes). If more coaxing is needed, a preextraction product may be required. 6. Apply postextraction product according to the product line instructions. The cleansing facial This is the monthly facial to clean the skin. Cleansing was the major goal in skincare before antiaging, microdermabrasion, and LED. It worked in the past and still does today. It removes dead cells from the surface, allows the skin to be more vibrant, and enhances the results The hydrating facial The exfoliation of the dead cells on the epidermis by a deep-cleansing product allows enhanced penetration of ingredients and hydration by the superhydration mask. Dry or dehydrated skin glows, is noticeably softened, and allows makeup to be applied with more smoothness.
of home care. It is the above facial with a scrub as the deep cleanser (step 4) and a gentle hydration mask (step 8). Extractions are minor with this facial, possibly a few blackheads (steps 5 and 6).
A mix-at-the-chair, enzyme-based mask under steam is the best deep cleanser (step 4). Remove after five to seven minutes. The hydrating mask is one with an abundance of hyaluronic acid/sodium hyaluronate (step 8) and other hydrators. If the mask has penetrated or almost penetrated, do not remove it before applying the postmask products (step 9).
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