It is vital that the professional cosmetologist or esthetician understands which ingredients are considered safe and which are best avoided. Understanding the chemical reaction between each client’s unique body chemistry and the products can help
avoid unwanted skin reactions and hair disasters. With that in mind, in the next chapter we will cover the toxic chemicals that should be avoided. These chemicals can still be found in products.
PART 3: TOXIC AND POTENTIALLY HARMFUL INGREDIENTS
● Diethylhexyl phthalate : Studies have shown that this chemical can harm the reproductive system and can affect a developing fetus. ● Carbon black : This chemical has been classified by the International Research Agency for Research on Cancer as a possible carcinogenic. ● Artificial fragrance : Manufacturers are not required to reveal what ingredients are used to create the fragrance, so the consumer is left to guess what concoction of chemicals the product contains. ● Sodium laurel sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate : These can cause skin irritations and trigger allergies. In addition, chemical compounds known as nitrosamines – which are carcinogenic – are a common byproduct of the sulphation process. ● Polyetylene glycol (PEG) : PEG is often contaminated with both ethylene oxide (a known carcinogen) and 1.4-Dioxane (causes respiratory problems). ● Diethanolamine : This foaming agent is usually listed as DEA on the ingredients list. It’s a known carcinogen and respiratory toxin, and the EU has restricted its use in personal care products. In the United States it can easily be found in bubble bath, body wash and shampoo. ● Oxybenzone : The most common sunscreens on the market use oxybenzone; it can also be found in lipsticks, moisturizers, and makeup. This toxic chemical is a known endocrine disruptor; it can alter thyroid function; and it has been linked to skin allergies.
The FDA is America’s watchdog for contaminants in not only our food, but in the products, we use daily on our hair, skin, and body (Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, n.d.). Many toxic ingredients that were once used in cosmetics are now banned, but the “Watch List” still features a long list of ingredients that are best to avoid when purchasing cosmetics. Here are the Top 20 Toxic Ingredients to Avoid: ● Formaldehyde (in high amounts): A carcinogen when used in high levels, deemed safe by the FDA in low amounts. ● Mercury : This chemical can damage the kidneys and nervous system. ● Lead : A potent neurotoxin. ● Asbestos : A known carcinogen. ● Isobutylparaben : An endocrine disruptor that can harm the male reproductive system. ● Isopropylparaben : An endocrine disruptor that can mimic estrogen. ● Butylparaben : An endocrine disruptor that can harm the male reproductive system. ● Propylparaben : An endocrine disruptor that can mimic estrogen. ● Toluene : Toxic to the brain and nervous system. ● Chemicals that release formaldehyde : Products containing certain formaldehyde releasers have now been banned in many major stores and retail chains. ● Triclosan : Affects the thyroid. ● Per- and polyflouroalkyl substances (PFAS) : These chemicals have been linked to cancer. ● Dibutyl phthalate : An endocrine disruptor.
PART 4: NATURAL, ORGANIC, VEGAN, AND SYNTHETIC-FREE COSMETICS
contaminated with heavy toxic metals, and some essential oils trigger allergic reactions. Organic claims on cosmetic products are regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Products with ingredients that are either 100% organically produced or at least 95% organically produced, with the remaining 5% on the approved substances list, display the USDA Organic seal (U.S. Department of Agriculture, n.d.). Products that claim to be organic but don’t carry an official seal may not meet the standards. Many synthetics have been linked to carcinogens, endocrine disruption, developmental disorders, and other health issues. The Toxic 20 should be avoided, but not all synthetics are bad. There are many that have not been linked to any health problems that play an important role in cosmetics. Ultimately it is up the professional to decide which products are the safest to use. Understanding your client’s health history, allergies, and medications they may be on is important information when determining which products would provide the best results, and which contain chemicals that may be irritants. Read the labels to really know what chemicals are in each product, and don’t trust marketing claims. Understanding the basics of cosmetic chemistry and having the ability to recognize which ingredients are toxic and which ingredients are safe will give you an advantage in the salon, as you will be able to provide your clientele with the safest, and best, products for each of their individual needs. de Gruchy, H. (2022, October 18). What is an emulsifier in skin care? Sönd. https://www.sondskin.co.uk/blogs/ discover/what-is-an-emulsifier-in-skin-care Deckner, G. (2023, March 9). An overview of Emollient Technology . Prospector Knowledge Center. https:// www.ulprospector.com/knowledge/5840/pcc-emollient-technology-overview/ Essential Wholesale and Labs. (2022, February). Gums, thickeners, and natural polymers in Cosmetics . Essential Wholesale Resource Library. https://blog.essentialwholesale.com/cosmetic-thickeners-and-natural- polymers/ Federal Trade Commission. (2021, September 18). Four companies agree to stop falsely promoting their personal-care products as “all natural” or “100% natural”; fifth is charged in commission complaint . Federal
Labels can be misleading. Just because a brand is labeled as “cruelty-free”, or “vegan” doesn’t automatically mean the ingredients are all from organic sources. Cruelty-free means that the manufacturer does not test on animals, but both cruelty- free and vegan products are allowed to add synthetic dyes, fragrances, and nano-sized oxides (Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, n.d.). These labels do not guarantee that the product’s ingredients are natural or organic. The brands that are cruelty-free (CF) and formulated with 100% clean, natural, organic ingredients will have a certification on the label – usually USDA Organic or Ecocert. As the FDA has never legally defined the term “natural,” there are no regulations on its use in cosmetics (Mayo Clinic, 2022). In a study done by the Organic Consumers Association, carcinogenic petrochemical ingredients were found in more than 40% of products that claimed to be “natural” (Sims, 2019). In 2016 the Federal Trade Commission filed complaints against four companies that marketed their products as “all natural” or “100% natural” with products containing synthetic ingredients (Federal Trade Commission, 2016). There are also no federal standards governing the use of the term “hypoallergenic,” which companies often use to suggest that a product is safe. Are natural cosmetics automatically better than synthetic products? Sometimes. There are also naturally occurring ingredients that are not safe, and some are used in the skin care, hair care, and makeup products that we use. Clays can be References: Ataman Chemicals. (n.d.). Carnauba Wax. https://atamankimya.com/sayfalaralfabe.asp?LanguageID=2&cid=3 &id=2868&id2=3610 Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition. (n.d.-a). U.S. Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda. gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/parabens-cosmetics Chemicalwatch.com. (n.d.). EU committee publishes opinion on salicylic acid in cosmetics. https:// chemicalwatch.com/73029/eu-committee-publishes-opinion-on-salicylic-acid-in-cosmetics Australian Academy of Science. (2019, September 19). The Chemistry of Cosmetics. https://www.science.org. au/curious/people-medicine/chemistry-cosmetics
EliteLearning.com/ Cosmetology
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