CUTTING NATURALLY CURLY HAIR
when cutting wet, the stylist tends to have better control of the hair, and the hair’s unique qualities and varying textures are more visible. When dry cutting, the stylist utilizes the curl’s true form to see the hairstyle’s shape and movement as the hair is being cut instead of seeing the results after the hair is dried. Wet and dry techniques are beneficial to cutting naturally curly hair and have their purpose and place in shaping it (Sands, 2024). Each method adds applicable practices for cutting any curly hair type and texture. Valuable information about cutting curly hair includes expressing the importance of a stylist paying attention to the curl type and acknowledging the client’s hairline. (Wilt, 2024) The client’s natural hairline is a foundational element in shorter styles, which are distinctive to the individual. The stylist should follow the client’s hairline when cutting the hair while making sure not to stretch the hair. Instead of stretching the hair and cutting the ends, the stylist cuts each curl separately to frame the face and complement the client’s neckline (Wilt, 2024). Suggestions and tips for complementing varying facial features and cutting natural curls can differ when cutting different types of naturally curly hairstyles.
Two factors are significant when cutting naturally curly hair: Knowing your purpose for cutting and whether to cut wet or dry (Sands, 2024). With hair, no two curls are alike (Quidad, 2022). Cutting techniques such as slicing and carving are the best for cutting curly hair. Slicing and carving are specifically used to create perfectly fitted ringlets that fit gently into each other, enhance the curl pattern, and remove bulk from the sides of the hair. Most curl types should be cut at an angle, using uneven layers to create tight curls. To avoid flat tops and to establish height in the style, cut short layers underneath long layers to pump up the hairstyle’s volume. Other concerns exist when cutting naturally curly hair, such as removing damaged ends and the movement of the hair. Damaged ends can make a hairstyle look frizzy and prevent well-styled hair. Removing damaged hair ends creates a healthier and fuller look. Also, the way curls are cut determines their movement. For instance, the hair moves less if curls are cut very short. When curls remain too long and full, they can produce unwanted weight, stretchy curls, less bounce, and a loss in natural curl formation. The stylist decides whether to cut the hair wet or dry (Sands 2024). Professional stylists choose to cut wet or dry because
NATURALLY CURLY HAIRSTYLES AND TECHNIQUES
the styles fashioned with other styling techniques, such as braids, flat twists, cornrows, Bantu knots, pull-backs, side parts, faux-hawk styles, faded sides, and the simple wash- and-go (Rosa, 2024). Puffs, finger coils, protective styles, Mohawks, and twists to the short naturally curly hairstyles list. Like short curly hairstyles, the current hair fashion trend involves long naturally curly hair worn by people of all genders and lifestyle preferences. Longer-length curly styles often require only trimming. Many styles for long curly hair are prevalent and are often designed using the following cuts: The Deva, Rezo, Diametrix, Quidad, Ri Ci, Mona, Tunnel, and Cado. Table 1 lists the different cuts and their effects. Not all of the haircutting techniques are limited to long hair. Some can be used for medium and lengthy hairstyles.
People with curly hair can finally express their lifestyles, heritage, and culture by wearing their naturally curly look. It is about time curly hair gets the recognition it deserves (Rosa, 2024). Still, people with curly hair must decide which look to wear. Some people prefer short, curly styles, while others choose longer lengths. The fact is that curly hair can be worn in any length and style. Some shorter looks that have been traditionally for men are now sported by all gender preferences, such as faded and tapered styles. Styles are cut with clippers, razors, and shears, ranging from crew cuts, brush cuts, high and tights, flat tops, precision cuts, pompadours, and faux cuts. Medium-length curly hairstyles are also part of the current trends for curly hairstyles. These hairstyles are expressions of full curls and are often only trimmed for natural lengths, bob cuts, graduated cuts, and layered looks. It is common to see
Table 1: Long Hairstyle Cutting Techniques Technique for Cutting Practice and Effects Deva
Cut curl by curl, layer by layer; creates curly bobs, adding volume and framing the face if desired.
Rezo
Ideal for long hairstyles with even lengths; creates full volume and shape instead of framing the face.
Diametrix
While making long and diagonal cuts, inner layers are created and used to add body at the crown of the head and frame the face, reducing frizz and bulkiness; best for long curly hairstyles. Used to eliminate pyramid and diagonal-shaped hair by making vertical sections along the sides and temple areas to reveal thick, curly areas; thick areas are sliced or carved to remove bulk areas, creating fuller shapes and volume in hairstyles. Does not focus on curl pattern, but on the density and weight of the hair texture and curl formation; suitable for short, medium, and lengthy hairstyles. Used for creating moving shapes and silhouettes, such as angled bobs; considerations include the client’s lifestyle and curl pattern, which must be acknowledged before using this cutting technique. Enables hair to be thinned in specific places to reduce thinning; specific strands of hair are selected to cut along the natural hair growth to remove bulk. Used to define, volumize, and enhance all types of curls; creates balanced shapes, volume, and cascading curls.
Quidad
Ri Ci
Mona
Tunnel
Cado
Note . Gaby, 2024
Page 27
Book Code: CNC0825
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