sewing-ins, attaching hairpieces, and hair units. The client’s corrected hair density should look natural (Milady, 2023). Hair elasticity The hair’s ability to stretch and return to the original length and texture of the hair without breakage is called hair elasticity. Hair elasticity is an excellent test for measuring the hair’s strength. Hair elasticity indicates the healthfulness of the cortex and the strength of the side bonds within the high protein layer of the hair shaft. Normal, low, or poor describe hair elasticity (Milady, 2023). Normal elasticity means the hair’s natural proteins are healthy, while low and poor elasticity refer to the opposite. Visual evidence of poor elasticity is hair that breaks easily and brittle hair strands. Low and poor elasticity are often the result of internal illnesses of the body, poor nutrition, disorders of the hair and scalp, and over-processing during chemical services. Protein treatments can prolong the hair strand’s life in clients with low or reduced hair elasticity (Milady, 2023). Hair porosity The porosity of the hair determines the hair’s ability to absorb moisture. The hair’s porosity indicates the condition of the cuticle layer of hair. Hair porosity can be low, medium, or high, describing how the cuticle scales rise on the outer layer of the hair strand. Low porosity means the cuticle layer is compact and tightly connected (Milady, 2023). Low-porosity hair experiences less penetration of moisture. Medium- and high-porosity hair describes porous hair. Porous hair more easily absorbs moisture and different molecular sizes of hair color. Determining hair porosity is important when considering the absorption time of chemicals, the final hue of color among hair coloring services, the healthfulness of hair, choices in hair conditioners, and hair treatments (Milady, 2023).
the scalp. Hair texture translates to the size of hair strands; for instance, a person with thick hair texture (large strands of hair) can have thin hair density (a small amount of hair per square inch) on the scalp (Milady, 2023). The average number of hair strands on the scalp is about 2,200 per square inch. An average head contains an estimated 100,000 strands of hair. The amount of hair strands per square inch varies due to natural color. For example, natural blondes have an estimated 140,000 strands of hair on their head. Brunettes (brown and black hair) have about 110,000 hair strands, while redheads have an estimated 80,000 hair strands (Milady, 2023). Naturally, blonde hair has a smaller (textured) diameter of hair strands, while naturally dark hair has larger (textured) diameters of hair. Therefore, naturally blonde hair requires more hair strands to cover the scalp than darker hair, meaning naturally blonde hair is denser than naturally brunette hair (Milady, 2023). Variations of hair density within different parts of the head are common. For example, some people have a low density in the front hairline of the head. Often, this is due to incorrect hair care practices, such as excessive stress on the hair follicle caused by hairstyles, and is sometimes a natural formation of hair growth due to genetic dispositions. When repairing the loss of hair density, one vital factor to remember is the natural density of the hair within different areas of the head. If low density is due to damaged hair, restoring hair density is possible through hair growth treatments. If low-density hair results from damaged hair follicles, developing new hair follicles is impossible other than through stem cell transplants; otherwise, damaged hair follicles are not replaceable. Correcting low-density hair areas on the scalp requires a hair unit or hairpiece installation. Be sure to match the natural density of hair when attempting to correct hair density concerns by way of
CHAPTER 4: REPAIRING DAMAGED HAIR
improper hair care habits, chemical processing, and hair lightening services (Meja, 2024). Repairing damaged hair involves thorough scalp and hair analysis, treatment of the scalp and hair to correct scalp disorders, and restoration of the hair’s strength and luster. Procedures for treating the scalp and hair consist of scalp massages, shampooing and conditioning treatments, and unique treatments for the hair shaft, such as protein treatments, hair coloring treatments, and trimming damaged areas of hair strands (Milady, 2023). ● The density of hair : Is the density high, normal, or low? ● Hair texture : Does the size of the hair strand fall within categories of fine, average, or coarse textures of hair? ● The porosity of the hair : Are the hair strands resistant, normal, or overly porous? ● Hair elasticity : Does the hair strand test to be healthy, break easily, or have average elasticity (Milady, 2023)?
The skin determines the healthiness of the hair, including the hair’s rate of growth, shape, and thickness. A healthy scalp strongly influences healthy hair. The scalp maintains the well-being of hair follicles and strands by providing nutrients for hair growth and maintenance. Healthy hair follicles support healthy hair production (NY Health, 2024). Yet, the hair shaft endures many factors jeopardizing the hair’s good condition. The healthfulness of hair can be damaged by excessive exposure to heat, over-styling, Hair and scalp analyses Hair and scalp analyses are essential to effective hair treatments. Hair and scalp analyses include considering six characteristics of the scalp and hair: ● Scalp condition : Is scalp dry, normal, or oily? Is there a presence of hair or scalp disorders or abrasions? ● The condition of the hair : Is hair virgin or chemically treated? Is the state of the hair shaft brittle, fragile, dry, oily, or normal? Scalp massage and hair treatments Scalp massage influences a more flexible scalp, stimulates scalp muscles and glands, soothes nerves, and increases the flow of blood and lymph. Shampoo services, scalp steam, and electric and light therapy are types of scalp massages and treatments (Milady, 2023). Scalp massage and scalp treatments assist in correcting scalp and hair disorders, such as dry scalp and hair, oily scalp and hair, dandruff, and alopecia, and support corrective hair
treatments. Many different types of scalp massages and scalp treatments are available. Choices for repairing damaged hair should include benefits toward promoting hair growth, restoring hair shaft healthiness and shine, and healing scalp conditions (Milady, 2023).
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