The pouring method The industry is moving toward a new method that uses acrylic powder but does not involve dipping, avoiding the potential spread of bacteria. Proponents say it provides more control when using a pouring or sprinkling method to apply the powder. The newer methods brush or pour the powder on top of the nail, which is easier to see and control compared to dipping. Some new products claim to be fortified with calcium and vitamin e, neither of which are currently regulated. This new powder enhancement system uses the following steps for application: ● Dehydrate the nail to prepare the surface. ● Apply the base for an adhesion layer. ● Using the pouring spoon and cup to catch the overflow, carefully pour the color powder over the nail. The cup will help catch excess powder for a clean service and easy clean-up. ● Tap the nail to remove excess powder. ● Apply activator to accelerate the drying time. ● Finish the look with the provided top coat to seal the powder coat for shine and a durable finish. (Nails Magazine, 2016) Some manufacturers of professional nail product brands are addressing the “double dipping” sanitation issue by developing kits to promote sanitary application. Greg Salo explains (Nails Magazine, 2016): The more we did our research we found out that powder-coated nails are a service that is requested more than gel polish because of the nature of its application, the nature of its wear and the nature of its removal. We don’t call it dip because dipping to us, especially if you’re doing multiple people, is an unsanitary way of doing it. That’s why we decided to do a method of pouring. If they are going to dip, they should put the powder in a separate dish and once they are done, they Steps to apply colored powders Manicuring instructor Rosa Vargas explains how she teaches dip system application to future nail techs (Nuñez, 2016). The procedures are listed for educational purposes, but the ● Pour a small amount of powder into a dappen dish. Note: A dappen dish is a small container used to hold small amounts of product. Removing acrylic powder nails safely One negative aspect of acrylic powder nails, beyond the sanitation issue that can be avoided, is the difficulty of removing the nails. Most removal procedures involve filing, clipping and acetone solutions that can damage the nail. Great care is required when removing the nails and several alternatives are available. The following example is typically used, though methods and sequences may vary. Note: If filing is not done correctly it can damage the nail and nail bed. Some facilities choose to skip the filing in step one altogether, starting with clipping and soaking, and only use a buffer at the end of the removal. The file must only be used to thin out the top coat to provide an entry portal for the acetone solution. Note : For clients who have had acrylics for a long period of time, one or two layers of nail plate may have been damaged so the nails may be tender (Nails Magazine, 2002c). actual product brand name is not. ● Prep the nails, clean and sanitize. ● Apply a thin coat of preparation material. ● Apply a thin coat of base.
throw it away. You don’t want to dip fingers in the same spot. The reason we went with the pouring method is because you have great control. When you dip the finger to the powder, it forces the product all the way back to the cuticle area. So, come down flat, or at a certain angle, or you have to scoop it with your finger. With this method, you simply brush it on and pour it on top; you get a more even application when you pour instead of dip. Technicians have favorably reviewed these new products, noting that their clients like the strength, durability, color selection and easy removal (Nuñez, 2016). Colored dip powders manufactured in 2017 are blended with pigment, offering greater creative design options for nail technicians. In a 2016 Nails Magazine article, Nancy Tran, a nail educator in Washington, said 90 percent of her business consists of glue-and-acrylic powder enhancements. When discussing her rates, she said “a single color set starts at $55, extensions start at $65 and nail art using dip systems will start at $85.” “My clients love dip powder nails because they are durable, strong, they look natural, and they like that it’s odorless and there are no harsh chemicals involved,” Tran said (Nuñez, 2016). Danny Phung, an educator with an internationally known product brand, told Nails Magazine that technicians will see “a surge” in powder enhancement requests (Nuñez, 2016): People want some sort of strength on their natural nails or some sort [of] extension to what they currently have. Dip systems are coming back because enhancements are back. It’s a fast way to do an overlay and now you can eliminate the extra step of gel colors and an LED lamp. Kill two birds with one stone. ● Dip the nail at an angle for a French look or tip the glass toward the client as she dips her nail into the glass so the entire nail covers the entire nail plate. ● Brush or dip off excess powder and apply a thin coat of activator. ● Make sure to clean up around the cuticle area. ● Repeat two to three times for full coverage. ● Complete the look with a finish product. Materials: Acetone-based polish remover; 10 cotton balls; 10 pieces of foil in 3”x 3” squares; a wood or metal orange stick; nail file; and a nail buffer. Here are the typical steps (Beauty Department, 2017): 1. File : Use a nail file to scratch the surface and thin the top coat to access the color layer below. Most nail damage is caused by filing, so be careful with this step. The objective is to file just enough to allow the acetone to reach the lower level to loosen and break down the adhesive hold. Note: Some procedures begin by carefully clipping the acrylic portion of the nail if it extends beyond the natural nail and if it is not too thick (Nails Magazine, 2002c). This is not advised if the acrylic covers the entire nail as it may pull away the top layer of the natural nail.
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
Book Code: NTNC0826
Page 38
Powered by FlippingBook