FL Salon Professionals Ebook Continuing Education

On the other hand, apple cider vinegar has a much more acidic pH, between 2.8 and 3.0, making it more useful in maintaining a healthy pH in the body by restoring alkaline acid balance. Therefore, it is often used as a conditioner for extremely dry, alkaline hair. The most effective cosmetic products (i.e., shampoos, conditioners, hair colors, tints, etc.) will have the right level of pH (4.5 to 5.5). Chemists have found that most ingredients work best at a specific pH balance. There are some chemical services used in cosmetology that require a high pH to work properly. If you encounter a product that does not have the pH number listed on the label, you can use pH test paper or nitrazine paper to determine the correct pH. Just dip the paper into the solution you are testing. A product with 4.5 pH or below will not change the paper from its original yellow shade. A higher pH will change the color to dark blue (4.6 to 7.4), and any product with a pH over 7.5 will turn the paper purple.

The pH level of the acid mantle in various parts of the body tells a great deal about the health of our integumentary system and gives insight into the cosmetic procedures that would be helpful for a particular individual. For example, the average pH on the surface of the scalp is 4.8; yet as we measure the pH on the hair at greater distances from the scalp, the pH value increases. This shows that less of the acid mantle reaches the ends of longer hair, meaning the ends of the hair are less protected than hair closer to the roots. The scalp’s oils keep the hair lubricated and shiny, while its acidity keeps the fiber compact and strong. This is why it is necessary to apply increased products to the ends of the hair to maintain shine and strength. For weak or damaged hair, it may be appropriate to use products with higher acidity and increased moisture. Finding products with a pH that is compatible with a person’s natural biology is essential to proper cosmetic care. Due to the body’s natural chemistry, products with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 are compatible with the natural biology of the skin and scalp, whereas higher pH levels are incompatible and can have a drying effect. These products maintain a mildly acidic environment that closely resembles the environment of our acid mantle. We call these products “acid balanced.” This is important to note because when high pH (basic) products come in contact with the hair, the solution is absorbed through the outer, cuticle layer into the cortex layer of the hair. This imbalance of pH causes the hair to swell, which forces the cuticle layers to be stretched. This stresses the hair and often leads to breakage. For example, washing hair with baking soda may clean it thoroughly, but the high pH level (8.1) indicates it is very alkaline and will have a drying effect on the hair. The significance of pH The acid mantle contains lactic acid and various amino acids from sweat, free fatty acids from sebum (an oily substance that makes the skin and hair waterproof and protects them from drying out), and amino acids (the building blocks of protein). If the acid mantle becomes disrupted or damaged or loses its acidity, the skin becomes more prone to damage and infection. The surface pH of damaged skin is often higher (meaning more basic), creating susceptibility to bacterial skin infections, fungal infections, or further skin damage and disease. Washing skin with soaps or detergents can cause the loss of acid mantle. A single washing can shift pH to the alkaline region. Healthy skin will typically revert back to normal within a few hours. However, repetitive and excessive washing can alter the natural pH level in of the skin, nails, and hair to the point where they are not able to recover for up to 14 hours. With an altered pH level, the skin, hair, and nails can become damaged; and by the time it takes to restore natural pH levels, it is generally time to wash again. This creates a cycle of damage that is hard to break without the proper treatments, and this is why using conditioners and treatments with higher acidity levels can help to protect and maintain the skin, hair, and nails. It is possible (and recommended) to buy pH balanced cosmetic products such as lotions and shampoos.

Skin Conditions that Increase pH • Eczema • Contact dermatitis • Atopic dermatitis • Dry skin • Etc. Diseases that Can Increase Skin pH • Diabetes • Chronic renal failure • Cerebrovascular disease • Etc.

These products have pH levels that are closest to the body’s natural pH and effectively keep the skin, hair, and nails from either drying out or becoming too oily. There are various skin conditions that can cause an increase in skin pH, including eczema, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, and dry skin. Treatment for these conditions most often includes very acidic topical creams because individuals with skin problems typically have skin pH values above 6. More alkaline environments also tend to support acne. Unfortunately for acne sufferers, most commercially available soaps are very alkaline, with pH values ranging from 9 to 11. This only compounds the problem, altering the skin’s pH to a more alkaline value, and creating an environment even more conducive to acne. Acute eczema

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Book Code: CFL1025

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