If you encounter a product that does not have the pH number listed on the label, you can use pH test paper or nitrazine paper to determine the correct pH . Just dip the paper into the solution you are testing. A product with 4.5 pH or below will not The Significance of pH The acid mantle contains lactic acid and various amino acids from sweat, free fatty acids from sebum (an oily substance that makes the skin and hair waterproof and protects them from drying out) and amino acids (the building blocks of protein). If the acid mantle becomes disrupted or damaged or loses its acidity, the skin becomes more prone to damage and infection . The surface pH of damaged skin has been shown to be increased over the average level, creating susceptibility to bacterial skin infections, fungal infections, or further skin damage and disease. Washing skin with soaps or detergents can cause the loss of acid mantle. A single washing can shift pH to the alkaline region, which typically reverts back to normal within a few hours. However, repetitive washing can alter the natural pH level in of the skin, nails, and hair to the point where it is not able to recover for up to 14 hours. With an altered pH level, the skin, hair, and nails can become damaged; and by the time it takes to restore natural pH levels, it is generally time to wash again. This creates a cycle of damage that is hard to break without the proper treatments, and this is why using conditioners and treatments with higher acidity levels can help to protect and maintain the skin, hair, and nails. It is possible to buy pH balanced cosmetic products such as lotions and shampoos. These products have pH levels that are closest to the body’s natural pH and effectively keep the skin, hair, and nails from either drying out or becoming too oily. There are various skin conditions that can cause an increase in skin pH, including eczema, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, and dry skin. Treatment for these conditions most often includes very acidic topical creams because individuals Maintaining healthy pH levels Knowing which products to use - from cleansers to conditioners and other treatments - can help maintain healthy pH levels for your clients’ skin, hair, and nails . Cosmetologists must receive appropriate training in the safe and effective use of each system for care of the skin, hair, and nails. In addition, all products should be used in accordance with the manufacturers’ recommendations. Knowing your products will help you make the best decisions for the care of your clients. For example, there are three main types of cleaning agents: soaps, synthetic detergents, and lipid-free cleansing agents. Soaps typically make the skin more alkaline than synthetic detergents . Acidic cleaners are less irritating than neutral or alkaline ones, and people prone to dry skin are typically advised to use acidic cleansers. Agents with slightly acidic or neutral pH (nonionic) may be preferable for individuals who are at increased risk for irritating skin reactions. You may recommend to individuals with skin conditions that they choose a mild cleaning
change the paper from its original yellow shade. A higher pH will change the color to dark blue (4.6 to 7.4), and any product with a pH over 7.5 will turn the paper purple.
with skin problems typically have skin pH values above 6. More alkaline environments also tend to support acne. Unfortunately for acne sufferers, most commercially available soaps are very alkaline, with pH values ranging from 9 to 11. This only compounds the problem, altering the skin’s pH to a more alkaline value, and creating an environment even more conducive to acne. Acute eczema with erosion can also cause skin surface pH to shift from normal to 7.3 or 7.4 (this is a 1,000-fold increase in the pH shift; remember, pH is measure in logarithmic function). The entire skin surface pH is increased on skin of people with atopic dermatitis. Furthermore, an increased skin pH contributes to staphylococcus aureus colonization, which can play a role in the formation of atopic dermatitis, discoid eczema, and infective dermatitis. Diseases that can cause an
Skin Conditions that Increase pH • Eczema • Contact Dermatitis • Atopic Dermatitis • Dry Skin • Etc. Diseases that Can Increase Skin pH • Diabetes • Chronic Renal Failure • Cerebrovascular Disease • Etc.
increase in skin surface pH include diabetes, chronic renal failure, and cerebrovascular disease. Studies show individuals with diabetes have a decreased level of skin lactic acid. An increase in skin surface pH encourages bacterial growth, making individuals with diabetes more prone to certain skin infections. Furthermore, the use of skin occlusive products, such as dressings and diapers, are known to raise skin pH and may be associated with skin infections.
agent with a low pH. Even minor differences in the pH of skin cleaning preparations can cause irritation to the skin’s surface. The Unites States carries very low-pH soaps and cleansers and formulas that have a neutral pH (called “syndet” – chemically, they are not soaps, but rather synthetic detergent in a bar form). Other countries have a pH of 9.5 to 10.5, which is inherent to a sodium soap composed of fatty acids. Knowing about pH can also assist in regard to proper exfoliation techniques. One of the risks of exfoliant use is related to the pH of the product. pH values lower than 3.5 tend to strip the barrier function of the skin, removing protective lipids between the cells and leaving the skin dehydrated, red, and inflamed. In general, do not use products with a pH of less than 3.5. Learn to analyze the skin properly, and make sure the product is in the right base vehicle for the client’s skin. Do not use more than one exfoliant product at a time on a client, and make sure the plan of treatment proceeds at a steady, slow pace.
CHEMICALS AND THE BODY
How our body chemistry interacts with outside chemicals Our environment and habits can also affect our chemical makeup. For example, although our skin naturally changes as we age, increasing time and exposure to sunlight can cause rapid aging and other damage to the hair, skin, and nails. In addition, introducing chemicals through the form of smoking can also take a toll on the body and increase wrinkling of the skin after prolonged use. In the case of sun or smoke damaged skin, the Food and Drug Administration has only approved a few products that are proven to revitalize the skin. There are various products on the market today that can soothe dry skin and
reduce age spots. Learning more about these products can help you and your clients to combat the signs of aging. Modifications that people make to their skin (such as piercings, tattoos, and permanent makeup) can also change the chemical makeup of the skin. These changes can create health risks that a cosmetologist should be aware of, including allergic reactions, keloids (a type of scar that forms during healing), and infections (such as hepatitis) . Allergic reactions to the inks used in tattooing and permanent makeup can also cause skin problems, such as rashes, that were never present before. These reactions are often immediate but can occur even years
Page 9
Book Code: CFL1024
EliteLearning.com/Cosmetology
Powered by FlippingBook